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How to Keep Closets and Storage Rooms Dry and Odor-Free?

Closed places like storage rooms or closets are prone to humidity, and that’s why it can be a very good idea to have a closet dehumidifier. Such a product is great for keeping the storage room humidity under control. And not only that, it’s effective, and it gets the job done much better than you might expect. Of course, you need to do everything you can to prevent mildew in closets, and here are some tips that might help. Why closets trap humidity? As you can imagine, there are many different reasons why closets tend to trap humidity inside of them. Most of the time, there are very specific reasons, as follows: Poor airflow is an issue because closets have no windows, the door stays closed, and there are no HVAC vents in there, either. Additionally, it has proximity to the exterior walls. That means there are temperature fluctuations, along with higher humidity zones, plumbing pipes, damp drywall and so on. All these problems end up being challenging and definitely hard to deal with. Plus, closets have absorptive materials, such as clothes, cardboard boxes, towels, bedding and shows. And of course, we also have to note the seasonal humidity spikes, which lead to warm season humidity or condensation appearing in confined spaces. Addressing that is going to help quite a lot, and it’s going to streamline the process. Common damage signs It’s very important to try and see if there are any signs of damage, if possible. One of the first signs you encounter is an old house, musty smell. And then, you will also end up seeing visible signs of mold, not to mention the walls will be either soft or damp, depending on the situation. And of course, you will have fabric deterioration, anything from staining to yellowing, weaker fibers, shoe deterioration and so on, all of which are extremely important. Small-space dehumidifier options You will notice that getting a dehumidifier is usually the best option when it comes to confined spaces like a closet. The role of a dehumidifier is to help eliminate high levels of humidity, and addressing that is always going to help quite a bit. Plus, you will always find yourself eliminating many of the downsides firsthand, while implementing the process in a more cohesive and consistent manner. There are different dehumidifier options to go for: Compact electric dehumidifiers are great for removing moisture in a closet, storage spaces and so on. They offer continual moisture extraction, a very quiet operation system, low energy usage and, of course, it can help remove a lot more moisture than other options. Desiccant moisture absorbers are great because they will help remove unwanted smells and moisture. However, even if they are inexpensive, they aren’t enough for a very humid climate and you also have to replace them often. Costs will add up, so keep it in mind. The best approach is to invest in a dehumidifier that has either a pump system or its own, build-in drainage. That way, you have automatic drainage, and it runs non-stop as well. It’s ideal for basements, storage rooms and any room with a high amount of humidity. Additional tricks It might sound obvious, but when it comes to keeping storage rooms and closets dry, there are all kinds of options that you need to take into consideration. These include: You do need to try and improve the airflow as much as you can. You can do that by opening the closet door here and there, add some slatted or louvered shelving, install vented closet doors and of course, don’t overstuff the closet where possible. Use the moisture absorbing solutions where you can. These are great since will provide some extra support. You can go with silica packs, bamboo charcoal bags and so on. It also makes sense to install a fan or small vent. If you do that, it will allow you to avoid humidity-related problems. While it’s forced ventilation, it does help and that’s what matters the most here. You can also choose to install a humidity sensor. What this does is it allows you to monitor humidity levels in real time, and you will also know when the humidifier needs to be turned on. Plus, if the humidity levels end up higher, you will know. Setup guide with Abestorm model examples Abestorm offers you some of the best dehumidifier models on the market, and setting them up is very easy. Generally: You place the dehumidifier near the center of the room Then you run a drain hose to a nearby floor drain or sink It can be paired with a humidity sensor if you want automatic control That’s a great solution for the Abestorm Guardian SN55. You can also get the SNS45 from Abestorm, you mount it on a shelf or on the floor, and then add silica packs in drawers to get some spot protection. You can also use the Abestorm RMF20 as well, which is great for tight spaces and small cabinets. Real user results and before/after cases Now the question is, does it really work or not? The truth here is that dehumidifiers from Abestorm will do an excellent job every single time. A user that installed the SN35P was able to lower humidity levels in their walk-in closet from 72% to a more manageable 50%. Another user chose the SN55, and from 78% humidity he was able to drop all the way to 47%. Simply put, these dehumidifiers work and can do wonders, if you know how to use them correctly. Clearly, you want to invest in a good dehumidifier that will help remove moisture from closed spaces. Otherwise, high humidity levels can have a detrimental impact on a variety of things you store. So it makes sense to browse the different options and buy a good dehumidifier from Abestorm. You have a great selection, and rest assured that there’s amazing value to be had here, too. Check it out for yourself and rest assured it’s always worth the effort

Eco-Friendly Dehumidification: Energy-Saving Solutions for Green Buildings

These days, there’s a huge focus on having energy-efficient, green buildings. However, even these buildings have problems with humidity. That’s why it’s important to pay a lot of attention to things like humidity levels as much as you can. Implementing the right systems to help you deal with humidity will help quite a bit, and it will surely streamline things in a more cohesive and professional manner. Here’s what you need to consider when it comes to eco dehumidification and how to approach it. Green building trends and humidity control needs It makes a lot of sense to have humidity control even in the case of green buildings. And that’s mainly because a high humidity level will reduce the efficiency of your HVAC unit. On top of that, moisture will lead to mold, and that is going to harm the indoor quality, which is something to focus on. As for sustainability-driven humidity challenges, there can be plenty of them. Simply put, you can have airtight envelopes that will prevent heat loss, which is a known issue. Windows and sealing can also be ineffective in some cases, and insulation might not work the way you want. Making sure that these systems are tackled with in a way that’s appropriate, simple things like that will help more than expected and you will have inherent value coming from that a lot faster than you might expect. How do traditional dehumidifiers waste energy? A traditional dehumidifier is wasting energy because it runs non-stop. And naturally, running 24/7 will end up being problematic in more ways than expected. Not only that, but the sheer fact of having inefficient compressors and coils will end up being a problem a whole lot more than you might expect. Additionally, some of the traditional dehumidifiers end up having a poor defrost system. The frost buildup is going to lead to things like reduced water extraction, more energy consumption, along with shortening the lifespan of the equipment and increasing the energy consumption overall. You want to try and avoid any waste when it comes to energy, and that alone is a thing that you can start addressing much faster than expected. New tech you can start using The great thing about technology is that it continues expanding and it pushes the limits when it comes to value and consistent results. That being said, you also want to think about the inherent challenges these technologies can bring to the table. Low grain refrigerant is a great technology that can help remove moisture effectively, and it performs great even if you have high humidity levels. It keeps a stable performance and it uses heat exchange where necessary. That’s great for eco dehumidification, since it can do up to 40% more water extraction for each consumed kWh. Eco-friendly refrigerants are super effective and they offer a lower global warming potential, they bring in excellent heat transfer efficiency, and the compressor performance is really good as well, something to keep in mind. Plus, things like smart modes and automation can be great, too. You get low-power and sleep modes, along with humidity tracking sensors, app-based remote monitoring and variable speed fans, all of which can be super handy and dependable, too. It’s a very good idea to try and implement these solutions because they will help improve your green building humidity control. With that in mind, they might not always fit your requirements, so you do need to approach this with the utmost focus. Once you do that, things will be easier to handle, and you will like the results a whole lot more. How to design a sustainable humidity control plan? The great thing about establishing a humidity control plan is that you can make it sustainable. However, even if it’s a multi-step plan, it can be inherently powerful and super useful. It comes down to how you are managing it. The first thing you want to do is to study the moisture load and figure out a way to get rid of that effectively and in a proper manner. After that, you can set the target humidity and usually that should be from 40% to 55%, something to keep in mind. Focus on improving the ventilation and airflow, because all that stuff is going to matter a lot more than expected. Then, you integrate a dehumidifier, and ideally you want to go for an energy-efficient model if you can. After you do that, you want to use zonal control. Define multiple humidity zones and then it will be easier to manage everything, while still being able to keep everything under effective control every time. Lastly, you need to monitor and optimize everything. Stuff like sensors as well as IoT monitoring can help quite a lot. Abestorm’s energy-efficient product features Abestorm has a multitude of models that are eco-friendly, like the Guardian SN35P and 55S, but also the Guardian SNS65 that’s great for basements or the Guardian SN90 which is great for large homes and commercial applications. The Hurricane series is exceptional for advanced eco dehumidification. These models come with extensive features, including high efficiency heat exchangers and coils, the LGR technology, along with eco-friendly refrigerants. On top of that, you have the auto mode and smart humidity controls, not to mention low-temperature control in case you are living in a mixed climate. Step-by-step guide to greener dehumidification Proper dehumidification will require adequate planning, and here’s a quick checklist to help with that: Measure the current RG, in which case you want to use a smart hygrometer Additionally, you want to fix leaks, seal gaps and use fans at the source After that, you should consider improving the natural ventilation, something you can do with ERVs, passive vents and just opening the windows Select an energy-efficient dehumidifier that has features like an eco-refrigerant, the LGR technology, an automatic mode, high-extraction effectiveness and so on. In order to install for maximum performance, keep the right clearance and use some vibration-dampening pads. You can also connect it to a humidity sensor, too. Lastly, you automate and monitor everything. And of course, it also requires maintenance like cleaning the filters, checking the sensor accuracy and inspecting drain lines. Closing thoughts Abestorm is here to assist with a great energy-efficient dehumidifier solution to fit your needs. Once you get a reliable, eco-friendly dehumidifier and implement the tips shown above, it will be much easier to handle and manage everything. Yes, it can be challenging, but the results will be excellent in the end!

Top 10 Dehumidifier Buying Mistakes to Avoid

If you have water damage or problems with high moisture levels, then it does make sense to get a dehumidifier. It’s an effective investment and one that you will appreciate more than expected. With that in mind, it’s still very easy to make mistakes when purchasing a dehumidifier. And that’s why we are here to assist with some great tips and tricks to help make the process easier. Common consumer mistakes Choosing the wrong capacity can be problematic, because if the moisture levels are very high, then the unit might not be able to deal with the problems. It will run constantly, you will see mold returning and the electricity bills will be much higher than expected. Not having a drainage method is also an issue, because the tank overflows, moisture levels will end up being higher, and you will also have issues when the drying just stops. Additionally, buying the cheapest model is always going to be an issue. Inexpensive models will cheapen out on compressors, they will generate a lot of noise, not to mention their energy efficiency is bad and the lifespan overall is on the short side. Another issue stems from not taking into account the room environment. Depending on the room, you will have specific situations that call for a certain type of dehumidifier. Some people also ignore the maintenance requirements. For example, some don’t think about filter cleaning, coil maintenance, or even drain line checks. And as you imagine, if you’re not performing any maintenance, the unit will not work in the most effective manner, which is going to be problematic in the long term. Why these cause poor results or high costs? Even if you get a dehumidifier, it might not deliver on its promise because you ignored some of the requirements. And the truth is that you will have a very ineffective humidity control system. As you can see from the dehumidifier buying guide ideas shown above, you can also end up with a high amount of energy bills. The equipment can also end up failing prematurely, not to mention you will have an increased risk in mold, which is naturally a huge challenge to say the least. And on top of that, you can have frustration with the unit, since you have to replace it often. Plus, buying another, larger machine is inconvenient both when it comes to space and the overall effectiveness, something you always need to consider. That, combined with the necessity to pay for repairs, that’s always going to be a huge issue, and one that will reflect into the overall costs. How to properly size a dehumidifier for each area? Every area within your home has its own requirements when it comes to the humidity levels. For the office, living room and bedroom you have a mild humidity level, so a unit from Abestorm that has around 20-40 pints a day will be more than enough. Basements have a higher humidity levels, so an unit with 50-70 pints will be fine. And then, if you need crawl space dehumidifiers or whole-house units, those should be 70-120 pints a day or more. You always want to size up, because a more powerful unit removes moistures faster, it will run less frequently, and it will also last for a very long time, too, which is definitely a thing to keep in mind. Noise, drainage, and maintenance considerations One of the things that a lot of people overlook is the fact that noise can and will end up being a problem most of the time. Noise levels should ideally be under 50 db, maybe up to 55 db in the living areas. For the utility room and basements, it’s fine to go over that noise level, mainly because you are not living in those rooms. When it comes to the drainage options, you do want to use a tank-only system for the occasional use. Gravity drain will require a floor drain, and a built-in pump will be ideal for crawl spaces, unattended operation or basements. Maintenance-wise, it does make sense to inspect the coils, keep the vents clear, but also check the drain hose for clogs. And of course, cleaning the filters monthly is also a thing that you must take into account the best way that you possibly can. Abestorm’s expert recommendations Our team at Abestorm has on offer some of the top dehumidifiers that you can find on the market. However, you do need to find the right unit to fit your needs. A commercial-grade unit is recommended for basements and crawl spaces. It also helps if you plan for continual drainage in spaces where the is a lot of moisture. Using a hygrometer is great if you want to have accurate monitoring of moisture levels in any space. And of course, you do want to take into account the long-term durability too. Abestorm units have a high airflow, a long warranty time, along with hot-gas defrost as well. We recommend the AirWerx models for this, with 55S being great for small spaces, 90X for the crawlspaces and basements, and the AirWerx 120X being suitable for whole homes. The Hurricane series is great for restoration jobs and heavy moisture, too. Checklist before purchasing Check the capacity and performance of the dehumidifier you want to buy What kind of drainage does the unit have, does it have a floor drain, tank or pump? What are the noise levels, is it suitable for the space you want to place it? Also, you want to ensure that the placement allows adequate air circulation, and that there are no obstructions. Moreover, you want to have a washable filter, simple hose connection and panels that are easy to access. Durability also matters, you want to consider a reliable brand that has good warranty and commercial-grade materials where possible. Conclusion Naturally, a lot of stuff goes into finding the best dehumidifier. It will take a little while to identify the right unit that fits your needs. But the focus is always on consistency, ease of use and durability. Making sure that the dehumidifier you want to buy fits the requirements for that specific case, that’s totally something to consider as well!

Air Scrubber Guide

Are you considering getting an air scrubber, or are you having a headache with mold, odor, and air pollution? Is this device reliable? This article does not beat around the bush; it goes straight to the point, from performance to maintenance, and every detail is broken down to talk about. Whether you've just finished renovating, have pets at home, or have been fighting mold and moisture for a long time, after reading this, you'll know if air scrubbers are worth getting, and especially how much an air scrubber for mold can fight. What Can an Air Scrubber Do? If you're looking at Air Scrubbers and you're not digging into the specs, you’re missing the whole point. This isn’t just some glorified air purifier that sits in the corner humming. A high-performing air scrubber for mold doesn’t just freshen the air — it scrubs out invisible threats like mold spores, bacteria, VOCs, and even airborne viruses. Purification Speed CADR, or Clean Air Delivery Rate, is your go-to benchmark. It tells you how much clean air the device can deliver per minute, measured in CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute). A low CADR means slow purification. A high CADR? That’s turbocharged air cleaning. For small to medium rooms (20–30 m² / 215–325 ft²): Look for CADR ratings between 200–300 CFM For larger spaces or central HVAC setups (90–150 m² / 1000–1600 ft²): You need serious airflow, ideally 500–1200 CFM Example: The Field Controls Air Scrubber clocks in at 1000 CFM. That’s enough to completely cycle and purify the air in a 100 m² space twice in 30 minutes. For comparison, that’s roughly the size of a three-bedroom apartment. Filtration Accuracy: HEPA H13 or Nothing True performance lies in what the scrubber catches — and how small those particles are. Top-tier Air Scrubbers are equipped with HEPA H13 filters, which trap particles down to 0.3 microns in size with 99.97% efficiency. That’s the gold standard used in medical environments. What Does That Actually Trap? Mold spores (2–10 microns), Public enemy #1 in damp basements and bathrooms. PM2.5, Fine particulate matter linked to respiratory issues. Pet dander and pollen: Big triggers for allergies, Aerosolized viruses and bacteria, Dust mites, textile fibers, even smoke particles If it floats in the air and hurts your lungs, HEPA can grab it. That’s exactly why HEPA-equipped Air Scrubbers are the go-to choice when dealing with chronic indoor mold problems. A high-performance air scrubber for mold will always include a medical-grade filter stage. Mold and Germ Neutralization: UV-C + Active Ion Combo It’s not just about trapping — it’s about killing. Mold spores don’t just float around. They grow, reproduce, and spread if you don’t eliminate them at the microbial level. That’s where high-performance Air Scrubbers pull out the big guns: UV-C Light Disinfection, Wavelength 254 nanometers (nm), Lab-tested to destroy 99.9% of mold spores, bacteria, and viruses within 24 hours of continuous exposure. Installed inside the scrubber housing to expose air as it passes through. Ion-Based Oxidation, ActivePure® or Hydroxyl Technology generates hydroxyl radicals (OH·) and superoxide ions (O₂⁻). These reactive particles latch onto airborne microbes and break down their cell walls and DNA. Unlike ozone generators, they’re safe for occupied spaces when certified. When choosing an air scrubber for mold, check whether it offers both HEPA + UV-C + ionization. That trio delivers a one-two-three punch: trap, sterilize, and destroy. How Long Does an Air Scrubber Last? Think Air Scrubbers are like those flimsy home air purifiers that give up after 3 or 5 years? Nope. That’s a rookie mistake. A professional-grade air scrubber for mold is built like a tank. We’re talking industrial hardware designed for the long haul — not something you toss when the filter clogs. If you treat it right, it’ll outlive your HVAC system. Core Unit Lifespan, Built to Outlast. The actual air scrubber unit — the outer body, the internal frame, and the fan system — typically lasts between 8 to 12 years. That number isn’t random. It comes down to materials and design: Galvanized or stainless steel casing, Resisting corrosion and physical damage, Sealed industrial-grade motor, Handles 24/7 operation without overheating, Ball-bearing fan systems, Internal wiring protection, Fire-resistant, sealed from humidity. As long as you don’t drown it or drop it off the roof, the main unit of most Air Scrubbers will keep running well over a decade, especially those designed for commercial or HVAC-integrated use. Many HVAC techs have seen Air Scrubbers running reliably past the 10-year mark, provided routine parts are replaced on schedule. Internal Parts Lifespan The core components inside are where the magic happens. These parts don’t last forever, and performance drops off quietly if you don’t track replacement cycles. Here’s what to expect: Component Typical Replacement Cycle Why It Matters HEPA Filter Every 6–12 months Traps mold spores, dust, and dander. Clogs fast in dusty homes or pet-heavy spaces. Activated Carbon Filter Every 6–9 months Absorbs VOCs, smoke, and odors. If the room starts smelling funky, it’s time. UV-C Bulb Every 12–18 months The bulb may still glow but lose germicidal strength. The output drops below sterilizing levels over time. Ion Generator Module Every 2–3 years Responsible for releasing oxidizing ions that break down mold DNA. Rarely fails early, but slowly degrades. Mold elimination relies on filter strength and sterilization technology. A weak UV lamp or clogged HEPA filter means spores escape, and mold returns. So, Can an Air Scrubber Last 10 Years? Yes — and sometimes more. But only the body and blower live that long. If you never replace the consumables, your high-end Air Scrubber becomes a glorified metal box. If you're installing an air scrubber for mold, your biggest job after setup is calendar-based maintenance. That’s how you preserve not just airflow, but full sterilization power year after year. Here’s a realistic outlook Main unit lifespan: 8–12 years (or more with care) Annual maintenance cost: $100–$300, depending on filter types Performance drop if neglected: Up to 70% efficiency loss after 18 months So when someone asks, “How long do Air Scrubbers last?” — the real answer is, as long as you’re willing to maintain it. Related reading: How Often to Clean Air Scrubber Filters Does an Air Scrubber Require Maintenance? Yes — But It’s Easier Than You Think If you’re hoping your Air Scrubber will run for ten years without lifting a finger, you’re not looking for a purifier — you’re looking for a paperweight. A high-performing air scrubber for mold absolutely needs maintenance. Not a ton. Not daily. But just enough to keep it sharp, powerful, and actually doing its job, which, let’s face it, is keeping mold, bacteria, and allergens out of your lungs. It’s not complicated. If you can remember to charge your phone, you can maintain an Air Scrubber. Here's what you need to do. Filter Changes — The Non-Negotiable Task Let’s start with the basics. The HEPA and activated carbon filters inside Air Scrubbers are consumables. They do the heavy lifting — catching particles, trapping odors, and capturing mold spores. But here’s the catch: the more they trap, the more clogged they get. And when airflow drops, purification power drops right with it. HEPA filters: Swap out every 6 to 12 months Activated carbon filters: Replace every 6 to 9 months, especially if odors are lingering longer than usual Don’t wait until the filter turns black and crusty. Set a phone reminder. Do it twice a year. If your household includes pets, smokers, or high pollen exposure, check them more often. UV-C Bulb — It Shines, But Does It Still Work? If your UV-C light is still glowing, is it still killing bacteria? Answer: Not necessarily. UV-C bulbs degrade with use. After about 12 months, their germicidal power can drop by 40% or more, even if they still look lit. That means your Air Scrubber could be circulating air, but not sterilizing it. Replace the UV-C bulb every 12–18 months Stick with manufacturer-approved models Avoid off-brand bulbs — non-standard wavelengths mean weaker kill power Cleaning the Fan & Exterior — Just a Quick Wipe-Down Air goes in, air comes out. Along the way, dust and hair will gather around the intake and exhaust. If left unchecked, it affects both airflow and indoor air quality. Here’s the drill: Use a vacuum brush and a damp cloth to wipe the inlet and outlet vents every 3 months Pet owners? Make it monthly — fur builds up faster than you think While you're at it, check for any unusual smells or sounds — early signs of clogged filters or fan imbalance Do Air Scrubbers Have Any Drawbacks? Absolutely — Here’s What You Need to Know First. If you’ve been scrolling through Air Scrubber ads claiming “zero maintenance” or “cleans your whole home silently for years,” take a breath. Air Scrubbers are powerful, no doubt, but they’re not magic boxes. Like any serious HVAC component, they have their quirks. Before you invest in an air scrubber for mold, let’s walk through the potential downsides, because smart buyers don’t just ask “what’s great?” They ask, “What’s the catch?” Buying and installing a proper Air Scrubber isn’t the same as picking up a $100 tabletop purifier from Amazon. These machines are built for whole-home air quality control, and that comes with a price tag. Portable/desktop Air Scrubbers: $200–$400 HVAC-integrated Air Scrubbers: $800–$2,000 Professional installation: Starts at $100–$300, depending on your HVAC system layout If your goal is just to neutralize fishy kitchen odors or cigarette smoke in one room, don’t overkill it. But if you’re fighting basement mildew, crawl space humidity, or black mold in vents, only a true air scrubber for mold will cut it — and that means budgeting for it. UV-C sterilization is one of the Air Scrubber’s biggest strengths — but it’s also the part that sneaks up on you. Because the UV bulb isn’t sitting in plain sight. It’s usually mounted deep inside the ductwork, right where your HVAC system channels air. That’s great for killing mold spores, but not so great when it comes time to replace the bulb. Labor cost? Typically $100+, depending on access difficulty Some Air Scrubbers include easier-access UV modules, but many require removing panels or even partial duct disassembly. For anyone using an air scrubber for mold, especially in older homes, this is a key consideration, because UV power drops significantly after 12–18 months. Conclusion: To Buy Or Not To Buy? If your home is damp and moldy, you have elderly children or allergies, or you are experiencing odor residue after renovation, then Air Scrubber, especially the air scrubber for mold series, is the appliance that solves the underlying problem. It's not the kind of thing that looks good on display, it's the kind of thing that can really get rid of pollutants that you can't smell, see, or touch. Would you like to see a list of recommendations for the best Air Scrubber on the market today? Contact our customer service at Abestorm, leave a comment telling us about the size of your home and your air problems, and we'll help match you with the most suitable model of unit.

May 18, 2025

The Pros and Cons of Air Scrubbers

Are you thinking about putting in an Air Scrubber but are a little hesitant? Is this thing reliable or not? Can it remove formaldehyde and odors? Does it use much electricity? Will you be able to breathe safely after installing it? Don't worry, this article will take you around those seemingly professional but empty nonsense, solidly clear Air Scrubbers - especially the 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber, this kind of main model - in the end, what's good? What's good about it, and what are the pitfalls? What Is an Air Scrubber? An Air Scrubber is an industrial-grade air purification device engineered to remove airborne particles, bacteria, chemical gases, and even viruses, on a scale far beyond what your living room air purifier can handle. Still picturing a sleek little box humming next to your couch? Forget it. This isn’t a lifestyle gadget—it’s a workhorse. If you’re trying to tackle formaldehyde after a home renovation, neutralize VOCs (volatile organic compounds) in a factory, remove pet dander from an indoor space, or stop mold spores from spreading across drywall, a regular air purifier won’t cut it. That’s like trying to scrape wallpaper with a toothpick. An Air Scrubber, especially one like the 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber, is designed for serious airflow and serious results. It processes 550 cubic feet of air per minute. Do the math: 550 CFM × 60 minutes = 33,000 cubic feet of air every hour. Now, take a typical 90-square-meter apartment (around 970 square feet) with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. That’s roughly 8,750 cubic feet of air total. A 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber can cycle and purify all the air in that apartment in under 16 minutes—and it can do that four times an hour without breaking a sweat. In environments like construction zones, hospitals, laboratories, or large open-plan offices, this isn’t optional—it’s essential. The airflow, the filter efficiency, and the ability to remove microscopic and chemical threats from the air make it a completely different beast from a consumer-grade purifier. So next time someone says "air cleaner," ask them this: Do you mean a decorative desk fan with a filter, or are we talking about an Air Scrubber that can practically vacuum the atmosphere? Pros: What Makes Air Scrubbers So Effective? Think of an Air Scrubber—especially a commercial-grade unit like the 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber—as the heavyweight champion of indoor air purification. It’s not just blowing air through a fancy filter. It's engineered to clean air on a microscopic and molecular level. Real Multi-Stage Filtration System (Not Just Marketing Fluff) Don’t let the name fool you—Air Scrubber doesn’t mean it's “scrubbing” air like a sponge. It’s a precision filtration system, often with three distinct layers, each targeting different contaminants. Pre-Filter (Stage 1), Captures large particles like visible dust, hair, and pollen. Think of it as the gatekeeper, keeping the big stuff from clogging up the finer filters. HEPA Filter (Stage 2), usually rated H13 or higher, which means it traps 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns in size. What does that include? PM2.5, smoke particles, mold spores, bacteria—all gone. That "haze" you sometimes see hanging in sunlight? A HEPA filter crushes that. Activated Carbon or UV-C Layer (Stage 3). This layer tackles the invisible threats—chemical gases (VOCs), formaldehyde, fumes, and pathogens. Activated carbon absorbs gases at the molecular level, while UV-C modules kill microorganisms by disrupting their DNA. It’s like a double-tap for toxic air. Put together, this triple-defense system handles everything from lingering paint fumes to airborne viruses. Formaldehyde? Neutralized. Black mold spores? Trapped. Lingering smoke from a kitchen fire? Filtered. Try getting that performance out of your typical consumer air purifier. High Capacity & Large Coverage Area What does 550 CFM really mean? CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute, and 550 of those per minute means the unit processes 33,000 cubic feet per hour. Imagine a room that's 180 square meters (around 1,940 sq ft) with a ceiling height of 2.7 meters—that’s about 486 cubic meters or 17,170 cubic feet of air. A 550 CFM Air Scrubber can completely cycle and clean all the air in that space nearly two times every hour, or once every 30 minutes. That level of efficiency is why you’ll find air scrubbers in: Construction zones to remove dust and fiberglass; Hospitals and labs where air sterility is crucial; Offices and gyms where people constantly breathe out CO₂. If you’re in the home renovation business, doing post-remodel cleanups or chemical fume extractions, renting a 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber for just a few hours can get the job done fast. No lingering smell, no client complaints—just fresh, breathable air. Especially Effective at Removing Gaseous Pollutants (Like CO₂ and VOCs) Worried about carbon dioxide buildup in a crowded office? Or that “new paint” smell from a freshly renovated room? That’s where Air Scrubbers shine. Most air purifiers on the market are only good at removing particles—dust, pollen, pet dander. But gases? They're too small and slippery. The 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber, equipped with activated carbon filters, ionization modules, or even ozone generators (in some models), specifically targets: CO₂: Common in poorly ventilated indoor spaces; VOCs: Found in paints, adhesives, furniture glue, and cleaning products; Chemical fumes: From industrial solvents or pesticides. These airborne chemicals can cause headaches, fatigue, respiratory issues, and long-term health effects. Standard air purifiers don’t stand a chance. But an air scrubber? It’s built to trap or break them down at a molecular level. In short, an Air Scrubber isn’t just good at cleaning air—it’s built to decontaminate it. It works fast, works hard, and works in ways that most air purifiers can’t even begin to match. If you are in need of an air scrubber, you can choose to trust us at Abestorm. not only will we give you answers to any questions you may have about air scrubbers, but we also offer a 24-hour helpline. We also vigorously research and develop various household appliances, such as dehumidifiers and exhaust fans. Cons: What Are the Drawbacks of Air Scrubbers? Air scrubbers are absolute beasts when it comes to cleaning air. But no machine is flawless. Before you invest, let’s talk about the downsides—clearly, directly, and with real-world numbers. Not Built for Odor Elimination Yes, air scrubbers often include activated carbon filters, which do absorb some odors. But if you’re expecting this machine to erase the scent of fried bacon, garlic shrimp, or lingering cigarette smoke from your man cave? You’re likely to be disappointed. The air scrubber model is designed to tackle health hazards, not win a fragrance competition. It removes VOC fumes, formaldehyde, mold spores, and fine dust particles. It’s not a Glade plug-in. If a clean, fresh scent is your priority, you’ll need to pair it with an essential oil diffuser or deodorizer. Air scrubbers fight invisible enemies; they’re not air fresheners in disguise. Still an Investment (Though More Affordable Than You Think) Compared to older or industrial units priced well above $1,000, the Abestorm 550 CFM Air Scrubber is actually competitively priced at $372.75 (down from $497). For a 3-stage filtration system with a durable housing and professional airflow capacity, that’s a solid deal. But the costs don’t stop there. Replacement HEPA filters and activated carbon filters typically need swapping every 3 to 6 months, depending on usage and contamination levels. On average, a filter set costs between $60 and $120 USD. Running two filter replacements a year? That’s $120–$240 in annual maintenance. For contractors, remediation pros, or HVAC techs, this is nothing. But for a homeowner using the unit occasionally in a basement or garage? It’s still a line item worth budgeting. That said, for temporary jobs (like a post-renovation cleanup or mold mitigation), renting could be an option. Rental rates in the U.S. vary, but $35 to $50 per day is typical for similar commercial-grade scrubbers. It Uses a Decent Amount of Power While not a power hog, a 550 CFM air scrubber is more energy-intensive than your average air purifier. Here’s what to expect with the Abestorm unit: Power rating: Typically falls between 250–350 watts. Run it for 10 hours per day? That’s about 2.5 to 3.5 kWh daily. At the national average electricity rate of $0.16 per kWh, your daily cost ranges between $0.40 and $0.56. That adds up to $12–$17/month if used daily for 10 hours. For industrial or commercial use, that’s negligible. But for homeowners running multiple devices or trying to keep electric bills down, it’s one more thing to factor in. The Abestorm 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber offers high performance at an accessible price, but it’s not magic. It won’t make your house smell like a pine forest. It requires regular filter replacements. It does pull some juice from your outlet. But if you need serious air cleaning—think mold spores, wildfire smoke, construction dust, or VOC fumes—it gets the job done fast, reliably, and affordably. Want healthy air or just nice-smelling air? Know the difference—this machine definitely does. Are Air Scrubbers Worth It? Let’s kick this off with a simple question: Do you care about how the air feels—or what’s actually in it? If you're chasing ambient lighting, a subtle breeze, mood-enhancing humidity, or rose-scented airflow… this isn’t your machine. Air scrubbers aren’t lifestyle gadgets. They’re workhorses—built for function, not fragrance. But if you’re in one of these situations, keep reading. Because this might be the smartest air-related purchase you'll ever make. Renovating and Worried About Formaldehyde? Fresh paint, new furniture, adhesives, and flooring can all release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. It lingers in the air, especially in enclosed spaces, and standard air purifiers often can’t touch it. The 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber, like the one from Abestorm, is designed to pull those VOCs out of circulation, fast. The triple filtration system—with a pre-filter, H13-grade HEPA, and activated carbon—doesn’t just trap particles; it adsorbs harmful gases too. Have Babies, Elderly Family, or Asthma Sufferers at Home? When immune systems are developing or compromised, even mild indoor pollution can cause big health problems. Allergens, dust mites, mold spores—they float around invisible to the eye, but not to your lungs. A high-powered air scrubber can clean 33,000 cubic feet of air per hour. For a 1,000 sq. ft. home with standard ceilings? That’s a full air exchange every 15 minutes. That’s how you protect the people you care about, not just with a nice scent, but with clean, breathable, contaminant-free air. Work in a Stuffy Office With Sky-High CO₂ Levels? Ever wonder why everyone seems groggy and irritable by 3 PM? It’s not just the Monday blues—it could be carbon dioxide buildup from poor ventilation. A dense room with 5–10 people and no open windows can hit CO₂ concentrations of 1500+ ppm, which is well above the comfort threshold. Most consumer air purifiers can’t touch CO₂. But air scrubbers, especially those with activated carbon and optional negative ion modules, can actively reduce gaseous pollutants, keeping you sharper, more focused, and less cranky. Work in Paint, Woodwork, Restoration, or Healthcare? If your job exposes you to paint fumes, drywall dust, mold spores, wood particles, or chemical residues, an air scrubber is not optional—it’s protective equipment. Contractors, mold remediation teams, hospitals, dental clinics, and even cannabis grow facilities rely on 550 CFM air scrubbers because they're compact enough to move around. They process air continuously and powerfully. They're designed to meet OSHA and EPA guidelines for clean-air workspaces. Why 550 CFM Is the “Just Right” Too small, and you’re wasting time. Too large, and it’s overkill. The 550 CFM model balances portability with performance. It covers both residential and light commercial needs without draining your wallet or power supply. At 550 CFM, you're cycling through the air of a 2-car garage every 10 minutes. Priced around $372.75, it’s a serious machine at a non-intimidating price point—especially compared to $800+ industrial options. Plug it in. Let it run. No app, no fluff, no BS. So—Is It Worth It? If your top concern mood lighting or fresh scents? No. Get a smart air purifier or a high-end diffuser. But if you're serious about air quality—about eliminating pollutants instead of masking them—then yes. A 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber is not only worth it. It might be the only device actually doing the job you thought your air purifier was doing. Still unsure? Check out this must-read next: Why Do I Need an Air Scrubber

May 14, 2025

How to Install an Air Scrubber in HVAC System

Ever wonder what’s floating around in your home’s air right now? Dust mites, pollen, mold spores, pet dander, chemical fumes—and that’s just the short list. If your HVAC system is just cycling that stuff over and over, then every breath you take might be… well, kind of gross. That’s where air scrubbers come in. These aren’t the flimsy plug-in gadgets from a late-night infomercial. We’re talking professional-grade filtration systems—like the Integrated Air Scrubber—built to wipe the air clean at the source: inside your HVAC ductwork. Think hospital-level air quality, but at home. In this guide, we’ll break down exactly what air scrubbers are, how they work, whether they’re worth your money, and—most importantly—how to install one without calling in a full HVAC crew. You’ll get clear steps, real cost breakdowns, and pro-level tips even a total beginner can follow. Ready to stop breathing recycled funk and start taking in real, clean air? Let’s get into it. What is an Air Scrubber and How It Works？ What is an Air Scrubber？ Imagine you're sitting in your living room. The HVAC system hums quietly. You breathe in… but what exactly are you inhaling? Fresh air? No you'd never guessEven in spotless homes, indoor air can hold pet dander, pollen, mold spores, bacteria, and chemical vapors. And your standard HVAC filter? But not all airborne particles are purified, so this is where you need Air Scrubbers to help you out. A real Air Scrubber hooks into your HVAC ductwork and cleans the air circulating through your entire house. In simple terms: an air scrubber is a high-performance purification device installed directly inside your HVAC system. It captures and neutralizes airborne pollutants before they ever reach your living space. It’s different from a regular air scrubber. Most scrubbers only clean the air in a single room. An air scrubber, once installed in the HVAC system, purifies every cubic foot of air being pushed through your home—whether you’re in the kitchen or the attic. How Does an Air Scrubber Work? The Air Scrubber has two main filtration devices, a pre-filter Stops the Big Stuff, such as Hair. Lint. Large dust particles. They're all caught in the first filter layer. Think of this as the doorman at a club-if it's big and obvious, it gets stopped here. A true HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) filter traps 99.97% of particles that are 0.3 microns or larger. For context, a human hair is around 50 micrometers wide. So this thing traps mold spores, smoke particles, pet allergens-anything microscopic. If you need a whole-house air scrubber, I recommend The 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber. It processes 550 cubic feet of air per minute, which means it can filter the entire air volume of a 2, 000 sq. ft. home in a 2, 000 sq. ft. home. It processes 550 cubic feet of air per minute, which means it can filter the entire air volume of a 2, 000 sq. ft. home in under an hour. Ideal for allergy-prone households, post-renovation cleanups, or anywhere dust and fumes are an issue. These components kill bacteria and viruses, neutralize odors, and break down VOCs (volatile organic compounds) on a molecular scale. These components kill bacteria and viruses, neutralize odors, and break down VOCs (volatile organic compounds) on a molecular level. Are Air Scrubbers in HVAC Worth It? Yes it is well worth it. If your HVAC system is the lungs of your home, then an Air Scrubber is the immune system. It removes contaminants like dust, VOCs, mold spores, smoke particles, pet dander, and even bacteria-before they recirculate into your living space. It removes contaminants like dust, VOCs, mold spores, smoke particles, pet dander, and even bacteria-before they recirculate into your living space. Not even close. What would you have if you installed a whole-house air scrubber inside your HVAC? Unlike plug-in units that handle a single room, an air scrubber integrates into your HVAC system and cleans the air across your entire house. every room. every vent. Constantly. If anyone in your home has allergies, asthma, or a weakened immune system. Air scrubbers drastically reduce airborne allergens, mold spores, and pathogens. Air scrubbers drastically reduce airborne allergens, mold spores, and pathogens. Dealing with post-flood damage? Old basement smell? Cooking fumes that linger for hours? You need a dedicated air scrubber for mold and VOCs. unit neutralizes odor molecules and spores at the source. One standout model is the 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber. It filters 550 cubic feet of air per minute with a multi-layer HEPA setup. Great for households, remodeling projects, or any environment. It filters 550 cubic feet of air per minute with a multi-layer HEPA setup. Great for households, remodeling projects, or any environment that demands superior air hygiene. What is the return on investment ratio for air scrubbers? Initial equipment cost: $600-$1,200 depending on brand and features. $300-$700 for most HVAC setups. Filter replacement approx. $50-$100 every 3-6 months. Potentially priceless if you or your family suffer from respiratory issues. For under $2,000, you can transform your air quality from “questionable” to “clinic-grade.” That's far less than the medical grade. That's far less than the medical bills or remediation costs from letting air quality problems pile up. If you're still stuck on which machine to choose, you can read this article:The 6 Best HEPA Air Scrubbers of 2024 How to Install an Air Scrubber in HVAC System？ 550 CFM HEPA air cleaners are plug-and-play units. You don't need to install them on your ductwork. If you are going to connect air scrubbers directly to your ductwork, they are usually located on the return side of your HVAC system so that you can clean the air before it enters the blower and circulates through your home. Tools and Materials You’ll Need Air scrubber unit Sheet metal screws or self-tapping screws Metal snips Drill/driver Tape measure Sheet metal tape (HVAC foil tape, not duct tape) Mounting brackets or platform (depends on model) Safety gloves and glasses Power source (120V or 220V depending on unit) Optional: flexible ducting or collars if using a bypass install Step 1: Determine the Correct Installation Location You want to install the air cleaner on the return side of the HVAC system, before the air reaches the furnace or air handler. Protecting the HVAC components while trapping dirty air before it reaches the blower ensures whole-house filtration! Look for a straight section of return air duct with enough clearance to securely mount the unit. You may also want to consider a bypass configuration using flexible ducting if the unit is portable and duct compatible. Step 2: Cutting the Access Port With the unit locked in place, measure the size of the scrubber intake and exhaust ports, trace the dimensions on the ducting, and use metal shears to cut the openings, filing down sharp edges as necessary! Step 3: Mounting the Air Cleaner to the Ducting If designed for inline mounting (mounting inside the duct), use the supplied bracket to hang or mount it on a platform. If connected externally via collar, insert the air inlet and exhaust ports into the cut openings and secure them with sheet metal screws. Seal all seams with HVAC aluminum foil tape to prevent air leaks. Step 4: Connect the Power Supply Most home air cleaners use a standard 120V outlet. For permanent installations: Have an electrician hardwire the unit to an HVAC distribution panel or nearby outlet. For plug-in models, simply make sure the outlet is grounded and close enough that no extension cord is required. If your model includes a UV-C lamp or ionization module, verify that the internal components light up when energized. Step 5: Test Airflow and Operation With the wires connected, turn on the HVAC blower (you can set it to “Fan On” on the thermostat). Check the airflow through the scrubber and listen for rattling or vibration, use a hand-held anemometer if you want to verify that the airflow CFM is within specifications, and check for error codes if the air cleaner includes a filter indicator light or performance indicator light. Step 6: Establish a Filter Maintenance Program The filter is the heart of the system. Clean or replace the filter as often as needed, usually every 3-6 months. Some environments (construction zones, homes with pets, or basements prone to mold) may require more frequent filter changes. How Much Does it Cost to Install an Air Scrubber? Expect a total cost between $900 and $2,500, depending on the unit, your HVAC setup, and whether you hire a pro or go the DIY route. Equipment Cost Here’s what the units themselves cost, based on capability: Type of Unit Price Range Best For Entry-level plug-in scrubbers $100 – $300 One room only—not a true scrubber Portable HEPA air scrubbers $450 – $850 Jobsites, flood cleanup, mold mitigation HVAC-integrated air scrubbers $800 – $1,500+ Whole-home purification via duct system Example: The 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber sits in the $650–$850 range. It filters 550 cubic feet of air per minute—ideal for homes up to 2,000 square feet or post-construction spaces. Installation Cost Now, unless you’re confident about cutting into ducts and wiring up power, you’ll probably need an HVAC tech. Service Type Cost Estimate Basic duct install $300 – $500 Electrical hardwiring $150 – $350 Custom ductwork $500+ DIY install? You’ll save the labor, but factor in tools, time, and risk. If you mess up duct sealing or airflow, you could reduce your system’s efficiency—or even damage it. Ongoing Maintenance Air scrubbers don’t just run forever. They rely on filters. And filters cost money. Maintenance Item Cost Frequency Pre-filters (foam or mesh) $15 – $30 Monthly or as needed HEPA filters $50 – $100+ Every 3–6 months UV-C bulb (if included) $30 – $100 Annually If you’re dealing with mold or heavy particles (e.g., drywall dust), use a specialized air scrubber for mold, and expect to replace filters more frequently, especially during remediation. Total Cost Examples Use Case Approx. Total Details DIY install in home $850 – $1,200 Mid-range air scrubber + basic tools Pro install, 2,000 sq. ft. house $1,400 – $2,200 High-performance unit, full duct integration Mold remediation or flood cleanup $1,200 – $2,500 Commercial-grade unit + frequent filter replacement Conclusion Installing an air scrubber in your HVAC system isn't just a home upgrade, it's a health initiative with real-world impact. From filtering out mold spores and building dust to eliminating bacteria and volatile chemicals, a great unit like the 550 CFM HEPA air cleaner can give your indoor air a thorough cleaning. Sure, the upfront cost ranges from $900 to $2,500, depending on your setup, but the payoff is 24/7 air you can count on. Whether you're trying to protect a newborn, control allergies, or are tired of that mysterious odor in your vents, these numbers will benefit you. Need help choosing the right unit for your house layout or family needs? Ask for your requirements and we at Abestorm will help you out.

May 12, 2025

How Often to Clean Air Scrubber Filters

You know what? Even if you buy the most advanced Air Scrubber, as long as you are too lazy to maintain it, it is just a decoration. Many people think that the "purifier" to buy back to clean the air all the time, the results of a few months after the home air is still cloudy, stuffy heavy, and even a bit of odor - this time you have to ask yourself a question: how often do you Clean Air Scrubber! How often do you Clean Air scrubbers? How often do you change your Carbon Filter? Don't worry—this article isn't going to be a “vague recommendation.” We're going to get down to the nitty-gritty and make sure you know the intervals, cleaning frequency, and replacement logic for each type of filter and can do it at home right away. Do Air Scrubbers Need To Be Cleaned? Yes. Absolutely. No exceptions. Air scrubbers aren’t magic boxes. They don’t destroy dirt with a wave of a wand. Their mechanism is brutally simple and impressively effective. An air scrubber pulls in air, runs it through a series of filters, traps dust, odors, pollen, smoke particles, mold spores, and even viruses, then pushes out cleaner, fresher air. But here’s the catch —Where do all those nasty particles go? They don’t disappear. They stay trapped inside the filters. And if you don’t regularly clean your air scrubber, guess what happens: Filters get clogged, airflow drops, and purification performance tanks. Mold and bacteria start growing inside — now your air scrubber is spreading pollution, not cleaning it. The motor works harder — more wear, more heat, shorter lifespan. Don’t clean it, and your air scrubber becomes a dirty, smelly fan. A Clean Air Scrubber isn’t a luxury—it’s the only way your unit can actually do its job. Dust and debris don’t take a break, and neither should your maintenance routine. So, if you haven’t opened up your unit in months? It’s time. Right now. What Types of Filters Are Inside an Air Scrubber? Before you can properly clean or replace your air scrubber, you need to know exactly what kind of filters you're dealing with. Most air scrubbers come equipped with at least three different types of filter layers, each designed for a specific job and requiring its own style of care. Pre-filter Think of it as the net that catches the big stuff before it clogs up the finer, more sensitive filters behind it. It's washable in most cases and should be cleaned often to keep airflow strong and the deeper filters protected. This is the first line of defense. The pre-filter is designed to capture large particles such as: Hair, Dust, Pet dander, Lint. Carbon Filter (Activated Carbon Layer) This filter is your air scrubber’s odor and gas trap. The carbon filter specializes in absorbing household odors, cooking smells, cigarette smoke, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and chemical fumes. Made from activated charcoal, this filter doesn’t just mask odors—it chemically absorbs them. However, once saturated, it loses effectiveness quickly and needs to be replaced, not washed. If you can start to smell things again, your carbon filter will probably be maxed out. HEPA Filter (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) This is where the real microscopic cleanup happens. HEPA filters are made of ultra-fine fibers packed tightly together to trap particles down to 0.3 microns with 99.97% efficiency. These filters are not washable. Once they become dark, clogged, or begin to smell, they need to be replaced—no exceptions. A true HEPA filter captures: PM2.5 and smaller particulates, Bacteria, Mold spores, Allergens, even some viruses Each of these filters plays a crucial role in how well your Air Scrubber performs. And because each one tackles a different kind of pollutant, they wear out at different rates and require unique care routines. You can’t treat all filters the same. How Often Do You Change The Filter On An Air Scrubber? If you don’t use your air scrubber or air purifier every day, your filters will last longer. But even if it's just sitting in the corner, collecting a little dust each day, that still adds up. And when you're actively using it, especially in homes with pets, smokers, or heavy cooking, you’ll need a regular cleaning and replacement schedule to keep your Air Scrubber running at peak performance. Here’s a filter-by-filter breakdown。 Pre-filter (First Defense Layer) Cleaning Frequency: Every 2 weeks to 3 months, depending on your environment. Got pets? Clean it every 2 weeks. Live in a dusty or high-traffic area? Stick to monthly cleaning. Cleaner, quieter homes? You might stretch it to every 3 months. Most pre-filters are washable. Remove them, rinse under cool water, gently scrub off visible debris, and let them fully dry before reinstalling. Usually 1 to 2+ years. Pre-filters are made to last, but should be replaced if: They tear or deform, They're permanently stained, They lose structural integrity Tip: A clean pre-filter protects the inner filters and extends their life, so treat this step seriously. Carbon Filter (Activated Carbon Layer) Most Carbon Filters are not washable. Trying to rinse them will ruin the porous carbon material. Instead, lightly vacuum or tap them clean once every month to remove loose dust and surface gunk. This varies a lot based on how often and how intensively you use your Air Scrubber: Standard use (e.g., 6 hours a day in a clean home): Every 6 to 12 months Heavy use (smoking indoors, pets, lots of cooking): Every 3 to 6 months Light use (rarely turned on): Can last up to 2 years, but test for odor retention How to Know It’s Time to Replace: Sniff test. No joke. If your Carbon Filter smells musty, smoky, or chemical, it has saturated. And a saturated Carbon Filter can't absorb odors anymore. The stinkier it gets, the less effective it becomes. Don’t ignore the signs—replace, don’t rinse. HEPA Filter (High-Efficiency Filter for Fine Particles) HEPA filters are not washable. Water ruins the fiber density that traps microscopic particles. Instead, vacuum them gently every 2 to 3 months to remove surface dust buildup. Use a soft brush nozzle and avoid pressing hard. Replacement Frequency Daily usage (~4 hours/day): Replace every 9–12 months Heavy usage (~10+ hours/day): Replace every 3 to 6 months Occasional usage (e.g., once a week): Can last up to 2 years Visual Signs It’s Time to Replace: Turning yellow, gray, or black, Presence of mold spots or odor, Sharp drop in airflow or air quality. If it looks gross or smells off, it’s no longer safe. Don’t hesitate—swap it out. Filter maintenance is like brushing your teeth—you don't wait until there's a problem. Regularly clean your Air Scrubber, keep the Carbon Filter fresh, and don’t skimp on replacing your HEPA filters. Clean air isn’t automatic. But with the right schedule, your air scrubber will keep your lungs happy and your home healthier. How to Know When Your Air Scrubber Needs Cleaning？ Don’t wait for your machine to beep or flash a warning. By the time your Air Scrubber is alerting you, it’s already been struggling for a while. Instead, get ahead of the game with these clear, visible, and audible signs that scream: “Clean me—NOW.” Reduced Airflow or Louder Operation Notice that the air isn’t blasting out like it used to? Maybe it sounds like a small jet engine now? Drop in airflow = Your filters are clogged. Increase in fan noise = The motor is working overtime trying to push air through blocked layers. This is your first red flag. When filters get stuffed with dust, pet hair, and other gunk, airflow drops fast, and the scrubber has to strain to do its job. The Air Smells... Off Walk into the room and catch a whiff of something stale? Damp basement? Lingering cigarette smoke? That’s your Carbon Filter crying for help. A dirty Carbon Filter can't absorb odors anymore. It might even start to release the smells it once trapped. If your air smells worse after running the scrubber, shut it off and inspect the filters. Tip: Trust your nose. It’s often more accurate than any sensor. Filter Color Has Changed Take a look at the HEPA filter or Carbon Filter (if accessible). If they’ve gone from white or light grey to: Yellow, Dark brown, Black, Moldy spots…it’s time. No excuses. HEPA filters are meant to catch ultra-fine particles. When their surface is visibly dirty, the internal layers are already maxed out. Carbon filters, once they start to look like burnt toast, have stopped doing anything useful. Pre-Filter Looks Like a Dust Carpet Pop open the front cover and check the pre-filter. If you see: Matted dust, Clumps of pet hair, A thick gray film, Insect debris (yes, it happens). It’s shocking the first time you see it. But once you clean it, you’ll notice how instantly the airflow improves and how much quieter the machine gets. What Is The Maintenance On An Air Scrubber? Keeping your Air Scrubber in top shape doesn’t require an engineering degree. It just needs consistency, a little elbow grease, and a proper schedule. Below is your no-excuse maintenance checklist—designed to be printed, taped to a wall, and actually followed. Filter Maintenance Chart Filter Type Cleaning Frequency Replacement Cycle Notes Pre-filter Every 2 weeks – 3 months Every 1 – 2 years Washable. Dry completely before reinstalling. Carbon Filter Light cleaning monthly Every 3 months – 2 years Not washable. Vacuum or replace when saturated. HEPA Filter Vacuum every 2–3 months Every 3 months – 2 years Never wash. Replace if discolored or smelly. Set reminders on your phone or smart calendar: 30 days, 90 days, 180 days. Write down the date each time you clean or replace a filter. Tape it next to this chart. Stock spare filters in advance so you don’t delay when one goes bad. If unsure, trust your senses: if it smells weird or looks dirty, it's time. If you still have any questions about air scrubbers, you can check out the knowledge we have posted in the past. Conclusion The first step you can take is simple: get the Clean Air Scrubber now, and remember - it's not about the machine, it's about the breath you take into your lungs every day. Still want to see a more professional comparison of purification devices? Or a do-it-yourself DIY Carbon Filter replacement illustration? Leave a comment in the comments section, and I'll write it up!

Does an Air Purifier Help with Carbon Monoxide

May 11, 2025

Does an Air Purifier Help with Carbon Monoxide

Carbon monoxide (CO) isn't just a home hazard—it's a silent, invisible killer. Lighter than air, this odourless, colourless gas seeps into homes through gas stoves, furnaces, water heaters, or cracked chimneys. Unlike pollen or dust, CO binds to hemoglobin 200-250 times more effectively than oxygen, starving organs of oxygen and causing symptoms that escalate from headaches and dizziness to coma or death within minutes. Stay safe by ensuring proper ventilation, shutting off CO sources, and using activated carbon filters to absorb some CO. Keep in mind, these filters can't monitor CO; detectors are a must. So， What is Carbon Monoxide? Carbon monoxide (CO) is an invisible, odourless gas made of carbon and oxygen. It is poorly soluble in water but extremely dangerous because it binds to hemoglobin 200-300 times more strongly than oxygen. This forms carboxyhemoglobin (COHb), which blocks oxygen delivery to your body's tissues and can cause organ damage in minutes. Scary, right? Where Does CO Come From? Home Appliances: Gas stoves, water heaters, and fireplaces can release CO when fuels do not burn completely. Industrial Sources: High-temperature processes in metalworking and chemical manufacturing produce CO emissions. Vehicle Exhaust: Cars emit 5-15% CO, and levels in enclosed garages can become lethal in under 10 minutes. Other Sources: Cigarettes, generators, and charcoal grills also release this deadly gas. Is carbon monoxide harmful to your health? Yes, it can cause harm to your body, and in severe cases, it can cause death. Acute poisoning: Exposure to carbon monoxide for just 5 minutes at concentrations of 5,000 ppm can be fatal, with symptoms including headaches, confusion, and respiratory failure. Chronic effects: Long-term exposure to low concentrations can worsen heart disease and cause nerve damage. So, how do we prevent it?You need to use carbon monoxide detectors and air purifiers. Can I Just Use An Air Purifier? Most air purifiers, including whole-house HEPA filter systems and HVAC-integrated models, focus on removing particulates. HEPA filters excel at trapping particles as small as 0.3 microns with 99.97% efficiency, but CO molecules measure just 0.0003 microns, rendering them invisible to mechanical filtration. Even advanced technologies like UV-C light or photocatalytic oxidation, designed to neutralise organic pollutants, prove ineffective against CO’s chemically inert structure. This limitation isn’t a flaw in design—it’s a fundamental flaw in capability. Air purifiers address airborne solids and liquids, not gaseous toxins. To make matters worse, many homeowners mistakenly conflate air purification with carbon monoxide (CO) detection, assuming their HVAC air cleaner or portable purifier will sound an alarm when CO levels rise. Actually, it won't. The Indispensable Role of Carbon Monoxide Detectors CO detectors work differently from air purifiers. These devices use electrochemical sensors to track CO levels in real time, generating small electrical currents that rise with CO concentration. When CO hits 50 ppm—a level where health risks begin—alarms trigger automatically. High-end models even connect to Wi-Fi, sending smartphone alerts. How to Protect Yourself from Carbon Monoxide Protecting your home from carbon monoxide requires three key steps: 1. Install Detectors Place CO detectors on every floor, especially near bedrooms and fuel-burning appliances. Test the detectors monthly and replace the batteries at least once a year. 2. Fix the Source Regularly maintain your HVAC system, seal any leaks in ventilation pipes, and upgrade to modern appliances with direct venting. 3. Improve Ventilation Open windows when using gas stoves or other high-risk appliances to reduce carbon monoxide (CO) buildup. While air scrubbers can't eliminate carbon monoxide, they significantly enhance indoor air quality by removing allergens and airborne particles like dust, pet dander, and cooking smoke—issues standard CO detectors can't address. Pairing air purifiers with reliable CO detectors for homes with gas appliances creates a safer environment. In Conclusion Consider CO detectors as life's silent alarm—they wake you up to invisible danger. Install them near bedrooms and garages, crack a window when cooking, and swap batteries yearly. Hey, don't forget: Air purifiers handle dust, but detectors save lives. Test that alarm monthly—simple habits keep your air safe.

April 25, 2025

How to Get Smells Out of Wood Floor | Expert Guide

Wood floors bring a lasting and stylish charm to any house, however, they can also catch smells. Over time, odors from spills, pets, dampness, or mold can become ingrained in the wood. These smells both impact the floor and circulate into the air, which makes the entire area feel less fresh. If you find yourself wondering how to get smell out of wood floor effectively, fear not! Today’s complete guide describes the causes when a wood floor smells musty, how to remove the bad smell from the floor, and the tools that can assist. Beginning with baking soda on a hardwood floor to using a HEPA Air Scrubber, we’ll explain useful steps that actually work. What Causes Bad Smells in Wood Floors? Typically, foul smells originate from one or various popular sources. Therefore, recognizing the cause is the initial step in understanding how to remove bad smells from the floor surfaces. Pet Urine and Accidents Pet mishaps can penetrate deep into wood floors, leaving behind powerful odors. These smells often come back on damp days. Even though you cleanse the surface, pet pee can remain stuck under the boards or in the grain. An enzymatic cleaner for hardwood floors is the most promising solution in such scenarios. Moisture and Spills Too much humidity or water from leaks can be absorbed into the wood. With time, this paves the way for the usual wood floors smell musty issue. If the dampness isn’t cleared away quickly, it creates the ideal environment for mold and bacteria. Mold or Mildew Under the Floor When you note a bad smell, but can’t discover a spot, the odor might be rising from under the floorboards. That said, mold can develop unseen and yet discharge bad odors into the room. At that moment, a HEPA air scrubber becomes beneficial for taking airborne mold spores out of the air. Old Finishes or Trapped Odors Wood floors that have not yet been repaired over the years might bring smells from past leaks, smoke, or foot traffic. These odors adapt to the finish or wood solely. Occasionally, surface washing isn’t sufficient, and the floor might require to be polished and sealed again. Step-by-Step: How to Get Smells Out of Wood Floors Stick to these reliable steps to settle a wood floor that smells musty or supports pet and humidity smells. Every step assists you know grasping how to get smell out of wood floor or for car odor removal utilizing secure and easy techniques 1. Identify the Source of the Odor Begin by finding the place where the odor is emerging. For this, take help from your nose and search for spots, dampness harm, or symptoms of mold. Besides, inspect corners, close to pet spaces, and under rugs. In case the smell is powerful in one place, that’s probably where the issues begin. 2. Clean the Surface Thoroughly Clean the floor to pull out waste and dust. Next, wash using a natural blend of vinegar and an enzymatic cleaner for hardwood floors or water. Enzymatic cleaners destroy organic odors, such as food or urine. Having said that, apply just a damp mop. Extreme water turns the floor into a distressing condition and can cause mold. In short, it starts with the right surface cleansing. 3. Deep Clean with Specialized Products A few smells go even further. In such scenarios, test baking soda on the wood floor. Spray it on the stinking space and leave it for a whole night. Then, clean it up. However, for sharp odors, utilize a hydrogen peroxide or a pet-secure enzymatic spray. Of course, these products function well compared to the main cleaners and aid you in locating the best hardwood floor deodorizer for your house. 4. Dry the Area Completely Dampness results in foul smells. Thus, after washing, dry out the space with unlocked windows or fans. For improved outcomes, operate a HEPA air scrubber. It attracts smells, mold spores, and particles from the air. Also, it assists in avoiding the return of damp odors. This machine is stronger relative to air filters vs air purifiers. Although purifiers serve to remove irritants, a HEPA air scrubber eliminates more extensive airborne particles connected to smell. 5. Sand and Refinish If Needed In that case, smell does not leave, you might have to sand the floor. This clears away the uppermost layer where odors are stuck. Once you sand, put in a new finish to close up the surface. Often, this is the final move in how to remove bad smell from floor when every cleansing technique goes wrong. This offers the wood a perfect base and aids in preventing the upcoming smell increase. 6. Apply Cedarwood Oil for Natural Deodorizing Cedarwood oil has inherent disinfecting characteristics that can help get rid of smells in wood floors. Its sweet smell covers up foul smells and spreads a pleasant smell to the region. For this, blend some drops of cedarwood essential oil with a base oil such as mineral oil or jojoba oil. Use the mixture mildly on the impacted zones with a soft cloth. Let it get across the wood for one night. Wash any extra oil on the day after. Pro Tip: Check the mixture in a little, unnoticeable place initially to confirm it does not impact the finish of your floor. 7. Use Activated Charcoal for Deep Air Freshener Activated Charcoal is very absorbent and powerful at catching smells. Typically, it’s used in air and water filtration and can be adjusted for usage on wood floors. That said, set down activated charcoal in breathable bags or cartons. Place them throughout the affected areas of the floor. Keep them there for various days to soak up smells. Clear away the charcoal and discard it appropriately. 8. Increase Ventilation to Flush Out Odors Bad air circulation can attract smells in wood floors, specifically in rooms with restricted airflow. So, enhancing ventilation is an original and practical way to eliminate damp odors, pet smells, or humidity-related odors from the floor or nearby air. Unlock all the doors and windows of the damaged room to encourage cross-ventilation. Invest in window or exhaust fans to draw dead air out and introduce clean air. Also, operate a HEPA air scrubber together with natural air circulation to quicken smell removal. The above-mentioned steps are effective for various types of odors, including those caused by leaks, pet accidents, and mildew. The use of safe cleaning goods and equipment, such as a HEPA air scrubber, can restore your floors and enhance the air in the house. How HEPA Air Scrubbers Help Eliminate Odors? Once you clean the floor, odors can still remain in the air. At that point, a HEPA air scrubber stands out. These tools are engineered to capture smell-causing particles, mold germs, and dust from the air and close them in strong filters. A HEPA air scrubber utilizes a multi-stage filtration setup. The most significant component is the HEPA filter, which attracts very tiny particles that normal filters overlook. Additionally, it eliminates mold spores, bacteria, and organic material that lead to smells. Several people set side by side air filters vs air purifiers; however, these devices handle separate tasks. An air purifier is intended for confined spaces. An air filter is a part of the HVAC system. A HEPA air scrubber, on the other hand, is designed for heavy-duty tasks such as smell control and indoor air purification after deep cleansing or restoration. Running an air scrubber after cleaning assists with: Extracting persistent smells after dealing with wood. Clearing airborne mold spores from around or under the floor Enhancing indoor air quality in damp or smelly rooms Lowering irritants and particles in mouldy or damp rooms For houses with constant smell problems, Abestorm HEPA air scrubbers are best. These devices are designed to cleanse big spaces quickly and keep fresh air in houses with pets, leaks, or humidity issues. Preventing Future Odors in Wood Floors Once you’ve gained a thorough knowledge of getting smells out of wood floors, it’s urgent to stop these smells from returning. Prevention is easy and ensures your house stays fresh as well. Manage Indoor Humidity: Excessive humidity results in moisture increase, mold, and damp odors. Run dehumidifiers to maintain levels between 40% to 50%. This helps avoid smells and damage. Clean Spills Immediately: Moisture can penetrate the wood instantly. Regularly cleanse spills instantly to prevent stuck moisture and smells. This is a formula for ceasing issues before they begin. Use Rugs in Problem Areas: Install washable rugs in high-activity areas or close-by pet regions. Rugs trap waste and spills before they get to the wood. Wash them frequently to prevent the development of smell. Conclusion Foul smells in wood floors mostly originate from deep within the wood, activated by spills, pets, or stuck moisture. An awareness of how to get smell out of wood floor gives you command over your house’s ease and air quality. Easy cleaning steps, coupled with efficient devices such as baking soda and an enzymatic cleaner for hardwood floors, can be of great value. For lasting odor management and fresher air, investing in a HEPA air scrubber ensures the job is done, in the air, and on the floor.