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What's the Ideal Humidity Level for Your Crawl Space? Tips to Keep It Dry!

Most of us neglect crawl spaces, even if they are imperative for your home's structural integrity, but also its energy efficiency. Installing a dehumidifier in your crawl space is a great idea, as it can help remove a lot of the accumulated humidity and prevent mold from taking over. It's very important to learn how to avoid very high humidity levels in your crawl space, and we are here to help. Why is it crucial to keep your crawl space's humidity under control? Around 50% of the air you breathe within your home comes from your crawl space. It might not seem like much, but the truth is that keeping the crawl space free of allergens, humidity, and bacteria is crucial. After all, that's most of the air you breathe, and if it's infected, filled with mold and dangerous compounds, that can affect your health. Thankfully, there are different ways to tackle this problem, and investing in a good dehumidifier for your crawl space can be ideal here. What's the ideal humidity level for your crawl space? Generally, the best humidity level for your crawl space should be anywhere from 30% to 60%. A lot of the time, it goes well beyond that number. And if that's the case, it can bring in various problems that it's a good idea to avoid. We recommend checking the humidity levels and keeping them under control with a good dehumidifier. If you can keep the ideal relative humidity levels between 45% and 55%, then that's great. If you have the humidity level in your crawl space over 60%, then mold growth risks are increased. However, if the humidity levels go below 30%, that means wood in your crawl space can shrink or crack. So yes, it can be quite problematic to have either too low or too high a humidity level. It’s easy to access great results with a product like the Hurricane 85P, as it has great effectiveness and it even has its own drain hose and pump. Things you can expect when the humidity levels are too high in the crawl space It's imperative to try and keep those humidity levels under control, as otherwise things can easily get very problematic. For example, one of the things that happens is that mold and mildew take over very quickly. On top of that, the insulation deteriorates, and any of your floors get either warped or they are sagging quite a lot. Additionally, high moisture levels always attract pests, with termites being a prime example. Another issue that can arise is that your indoor air quality suffers. That means you will be dealing with asthma and allergies, which can be quite challenging to deal with. Plus, the HVC workload increases due to high humidity levels, and that leads to high energy bills. How can you measure your crawl space humidity? It's a good idea to keep those humidity levels under control. But how can you measure the overall humidity in your crawl space? The best approach is to buy a remote humidity sensor or a hygrometer. Place that in the crawl space, and then you will have remote access to the sensor's data. In doing so, you know when to use your dehumidifier and ensure that humidity levels stay within the right parameters. What leads to a high humidity level? There can be lots of factors: You have outdoor air that comes in, which introduces moisture. That becomes a problem in regions with a warm climate. Ground moisture can also influence crawl space humidity, and the same is valid for plumbing leaks. A very poor drainage system could allow foundation water to seep into your crawl space. And yes, it's also valid for condensation, whenever warm air hits cool surfaces, it creates moisture. It can also be caused by HVAC ducts not being sealed properly, as they might introduce moist, warm air. How can you know there are any moisture problems? Before buying a good dehumidifier, it's a good idea to see whether there are any moisture issues in your crawl space. A lot of people look for mildew or mold, and you should also check for musty odors or HVAC condensation. If your insulation is sagging or you see bouncy/warped floors, that can also be a sign that there are issues. In case you see any of these, it's clear that you must take action as quickly as you can. Tips and tricks to help reduce your crawl space humidity Even if your crawl space humidity levels are over 50-60%, there are ways to lower them. It comes down to using the right tips and ideas: Invest in a good dehumidifier and monitor humidity levels as much as you can Try to install a vapor barrier, usually that will block ground moisture from evaporating and getting into your breathable air Moreover, it's imperative to improve drainage, because it will allow you to keep moisture levels under control In addition to that, it makes sense to try and insulate the crawl space, you can use rigid or closed-cell spray foam because it will prevent condensation Does it make sense to encapsulate your crawl space? It does, because you get permanent moisture control, enhanced energy efficiency, not to mention the indoor air quality can improve quite a lot, and that does help quite a bit. You can also have improved pest and mold prevention if you encapsulate the crawl space, which is always helpful. Most of the time, getting a dehumidifier is ideal because it can operate even at low temperatures, and these units have a digital humidistat so you can monitor humidity levels. Getting a dehumidifier built for crawl spaces is particularly useful because it's compact, it comes with a built-in pump and automatic drain, which is extremely helpful. Closing thoughts It's very important to make sure that the air in your crawl space is fresh and also free of any allergens. That's why you need to keep those humidity levels under control, something that a dehumidifier can excel at. If you're able to keep those humidity levels between 45% and 55%, then you can stay away from mold and other dangerous compounds. That's why it comes as highly recommended to find an excellent, high-quality dehumidifier for your crawl space, as it can have a very positive impact when it comes to your health and wellbeing!

Dehumidifier vs Air Conditioner: Best Basement Moisture Solution

Basements tend to be humid areas due to the lack of airflow. That’s why mold tends to accumulate in the basement first, at least for most homes, and then it will continue taking over the entire home. Plus, concrete is a material that can absorb water, and the lack of airflow can become rather problematic here. What you can do is figure out whether an AC unit or a dehumidifier is the better option. What can each type of unit do? The thing to note here is that the dehumidifier is meant to help remove excess moisture from the air. It draws the damp air, then it condenses the water vapors into liquids, and then it collects the water in a tank or it gets drained via a hose. It can be good for improving the air quality while preventing things like rotting, mildew, or mold. On the other hand, an AC unit is designed to help cool air in an indoor space. Due to the cooling process, it can help reduce humidity levels. However, that’s a byproduct, and it’s not meant to do that specifically. It can work well both in humid and hot climates, and it’s particularly useful for enhancing comfort in living spaces. Moisture removal efficiency When we talk about removing moisture from a basement, a dehumidifier is usually the better option. An AC unit needs warm air so it can operate properly, and it mostly controls the overall temperature, not moisture levels. By comparison, the dehumidifier can reduce the room’s humidity levels by up to 50%. It’s clearly a more effective and reliable solution, and it can do wonders. Energy consumption That’s the thing: whether you use a dehumidifier or an AC unit, you do need to be wary of energy consumption. And in this case, the AC is the one that usually consumes more power, since it has fans, larger cooling compressors, and so on. With a dehumidifier, you have improved energy efficiency. The AC unit is better if you want both dehumidification and cooling; however, if you just want to remove moisture from the basement, your dehumidifier is a better solution. Where do you live? It’s just as important to think about your climate, as that matters just as much here. For example, if you live in a warm, humid climate, then an AC unit will be enough. But if you live in a damp, cool climate, then a dehumidifier is better since it works all year round without issues. In general, if the basement temperatures are very low, the air conditioning unit is not going to be the most effective option. The Hurricane LGR85 is a prime example of a good humidifier that can do wonders for any basement! Comfort and air quality Whenever you want to avoid basement moisture, you want to think about ways to improve air quality and comfort. A dehumidifier can be ideal if you want to avoid dealing with mold spores or dust mites. It can also be great for removing moisture that eventually leads to odors. The AC unit can be ok at times, but realistically, it can lead to overcooling or even dryness. Dehumidifiers are meant to improve air quality, and they do provide better comfort levels as well. Basement size Yes, the basement layout and size matter just as much. If you have a large basement, you may need to get a whole-house dehumidifier. Some people choose to go with a mobile dehumidifier because it’s easy to carry around, and you can move it anywhere you want. That’s why a dehumidifier is usually the best approach in a situation like this. Use cases For most people, a dehumidifier is ideal if you have a basement that’s damp and cool most of the year. It’s also good if you have mold risks and persistent humidity. If you use the basement for storage or various utility purposes and not daily living, it certainly makes a lot of sense to go for the dehumidifier option. The same thing is valid if you want to increase structural longevity, stay away from musty odors, while protecting items that you’re storing there. An AC unit can be good if the basement is humid and hot in the summer, and you use it often. You can also use one if you live in a hot climate zone and you need to dehumidify, but also cool the air. Now the question is, should you or do you need to use both of these together? As you can imagine, there are certain situations when it could actually make sense. For example, they can enhance the indoor comfort, you keep humidity levels under control, and you’re also improving the air quality. In order to make the most out of this, it’s a good idea to place the AC unit near the occupied zones of your basement, and then you can also place the dehumidifier close to any moist area. That way, you have the best of both worlds. Other things to consider if you want to keep great moisture control It’s a very good idea to seal any cracks in your floors and foundation walls Installing a sump pump can help a lot, especially if you have any water intrusion, so keep that in mind You can also use a vapor barrier for your floors and walls, and try to improve drainage as much as possible Keeping the downspouts and gutters clear is not a lot to do, but it can greatly enhance how you deal with moisture And of course, store items on pallets and shelves, not on the basement floors Closing thoughts So, if you have a basement and want to eliminate moisture from it, should you use a dehumidifier or an AC unit? Generally, if you want great moisture control, a dehumidifier is ideal. It can reduce humidity levels quite a bit, and it’s great for protecting the basement against mildew or mold. Sure, an AC unit could work in humid/hot climates and a finished basement where people don’t just store stuff. However, for the most part, a dehumidifier is better, more effective, and delivers excellent reliability!

Best Way to Dry a Room After a Leak – When to Use a Commercial Dehumidifier

Water damage can arise at times, and it’s very important to dry the room as quickly as possible. Otherwise, you can deal with mold, structural damage, and a lot of repair costs. Thankfully, drying a room after a leak is a lot easier if you invest in a commercial dehumidifier. Not only is it effective, but it can ensure that the room can be reused quickly, without expensive repairs. After all, property damage costs can vary anywhere from $1000 to millions of dollars, so purchasing this equipment has the potential to save you a huge amount of money! What tools can you use to dry a room? If you have any water leaks or damage within your property, there are different tools and methods you can use for drying. A common solution is to use a wet/dry vacuum, or maybe even a mop and towel. However, those methods won’t really help if you are dealing with extensive water damage. Dehumidifiers are the most effective way of drying a room after a leak, since they lower the humidity levels, all while preventing mold damage. How does a dehumidifier work? Before investing in a commercial dehumidifier, it’s a good idea to narrow down how it works and whether it can help you. Normally, the device will go through a repeatable process, which involves: First, the moist air is being pulled into the machine The air then goes over cold coils, which forces the moisture to start condensing After that, the condensed water goes into a tank, or it gets drained via a hose, depending on the dehumidifier type that you are using at the time Lastly, the unit starts releasing dry, warm air into the room In doing so, the humidity levels are lowered significantly, and you will have dry air in the room. That will speed up the process of removing any wetness, which could lead to mold accumulation, structural damage, and many other issues. You can avoid dealing with these problems firsthand just by investing in a great commercial dehumidifier. Drying a room after a leak If you’re dealing with a severe leak or water damage on your commercial property, it’s very important to figure out what actions you need to take. Aside from getting a commercial dehumidifier, you can also do a variety of other things, as follows: First, you need to remove any standing water. After all, the quicker you remove standing water, the better it will be to deal with that process. Removing any wet materials is the next step to focus on. Any drywall, curtains, furniture, rugs, or items that are wet need to be removed from the room. Make sure that you open the area so you can have adequate airflow. Remove baseboards, open the windows, everything that could help you dry the room quickly. Positioning some air movers will help because those will increase evaporation. That’s important, especially when we talk about dealing with lots of water damage. Now, you want to install the commercial dehumidifier(s). Upon doing that, you have to close the doors and windows so that the unit can do its job properly. Once that’s done, you will need to monitor the moisture levels. When is it necessary to go for a commercial dehumidifier? A lot of the time, a regular dehumidifier will do just fine if you’re dealing with a smaller room. However, when we talk about large, commercial properties, a regular unit won’t help that much. Commercial dehumidifiers are meant to tackle large spaces, and they are very powerful. You should consider using a commercial unit when you are dealing with multiple rooms that are affected, if you have dealt with flooding, or if you are detecting a musty smell, which is indicative of mold. Not only that, but it also helps if you live in a humid climate, or if the water soaked your insulation, subflooring, or walls. Whenever these issues arise, you want to tackle them the best way that you can. How long can it take for you to dry a room? That depends on the situation. Things like the amount of water involved, airflow and ventilation, the dehumidifier you want to use, but also building materials, can be a major factor. It’s incredibly important to understand these things, as it will make a difference. But for the most part, you can expect a room to dry in 3-5 days if you use commercial equipment. Without commercial units, it might take a week or more, which means you might encounter mold. If you had a water leak or any water damage, it’s a good idea to know how to avoid mold from spreading. A good idea is to do these things: Act quickly, clean the space, allow great airflow, and of course, use a dehumidifier right now. A commercial-grade unit is usually the best possible option. Keeping great ventilation even after you solved the leak issue is crucial here. Another thing to keep in mind is to replace materials. Some of them might be prone to mold, so that’s certainly an issue that you may want to tackle right away. Use antimicrobial cleaning products to remove any bacteria and microbes that could spread and cause harm. That’s especially true in the case of a warehouse or commercial space where you store items that people might consume later on. Using a professional, commercial dehumidifier can help you solve these issues and prevent any concerns or problems that might arise. There are always challenges when it comes to dealing with water damage or leaks in a room. Thankfully, a good dehumidifier is only going to make things better, since it can help prevent mold from appearing and spreading. Just that alone is worth its weight in gold. We highly recommend using commercial dehumidifiers like the Abestorm LGR85 because they are reliable, effective, and can provide an exceptional return. When you deal with water damage on any property, acting quickly can make a huge difference between $1000 and $50000 in repair costs. Cleaning the room/space and using a dehumidifier to remove moisture can help you save money and time, while also making it easier to restore the room to its former state!

The Pros and Cons of Air Scrubbers

Are you thinking about putting in an Air Scrubber but are a little hesitant? Is this thing reliable or not? Can it remove formaldehyde and odors? Does it use much electricity? Will you be able to breathe safely after installing it? Don't worry, this article will take you around those seemingly professional but empty nonsense, solidly clear Air Scrubbers - especially the 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber, this kind of main model - in the end, what's good? What's good about it, and what are the pitfalls? What Is an Air Scrubber? An Air Scrubber is an industrial-grade air purification device engineered to remove airborne particles, bacteria, chemical gases, and even viruses, on a scale far beyond what your living room air purifier can handle. Still picturing a sleek little box humming next to your couch? Forget it. This isn’t a lifestyle gadget—it’s a workhorse. If you’re trying to tackle formaldehyde after a home renovation, neutralize VOCs (volatile organic compounds) in a factory, remove pet dander from an indoor space, or stop mold spores from spreading across drywall, a regular air purifier won’t cut it. That’s like trying to scrape wallpaper with a toothpick. An Air Scrubber, especially one like the 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber, is designed for serious airflow and serious results. It processes 550 cubic feet of air per minute. Do the math: 550 CFM × 60 minutes = 33,000 cubic feet of air every hour. Now, take a typical 90-square-meter apartment (around 970 square feet) with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. That’s roughly 8,750 cubic feet of air total. A 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber can cycle and purify all the air in that apartment in under 16 minutes—and it can do that four times an hour without breaking a sweat. In environments like construction zones, hospitals, laboratories, or large open-plan offices, this isn’t optional—it’s essential. The airflow, the filter efficiency, and the ability to remove microscopic and chemical threats from the air make it a completely different beast from a consumer-grade purifier. So next time someone says "air cleaner," ask them this: Do you mean a decorative desk fan with a filter, or are we talking about an Air Scrubber that can practically vacuum the atmosphere? Pros: What Makes Air Scrubbers So Effective? Think of an Air Scrubber—especially a commercial-grade unit like the 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber—as the heavyweight champion of indoor air purification. It’s not just blowing air through a fancy filter. It's engineered to clean air on a microscopic and molecular level. Real Multi-Stage Filtration System (Not Just Marketing Fluff) Don’t let the name fool you—Air Scrubber doesn’t mean it's “scrubbing” air like a sponge. It’s a precision filtration system, often with three distinct layers, each targeting different contaminants. Pre-Filter (Stage 1), Captures large particles like visible dust, hair, and pollen. Think of it as the gatekeeper, keeping the big stuff from clogging up the finer filters. HEPA Filter (Stage 2), usually rated H13 or higher, which means it traps 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns in size. What does that include? PM2.5, smoke particles, mold spores, bacteria—all gone. That "haze" you sometimes see hanging in sunlight? A HEPA filter crushes that. Activated Carbon or UV-C Layer (Stage 3). This layer tackles the invisible threats—chemical gases (VOCs), formaldehyde, fumes, and pathogens. Activated carbon absorbs gases at the molecular level, while UV-C modules kill microorganisms by disrupting their DNA. It’s like a double-tap for toxic air. Put together, this triple-defense system handles everything from lingering paint fumes to airborne viruses. Formaldehyde? Neutralized. Black mold spores? Trapped. Lingering smoke from a kitchen fire? Filtered. Try getting that performance out of your typical consumer air purifier. High Capacity & Large Coverage Area What does 550 CFM really mean? CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute, and 550 of those per minute means the unit processes 33,000 cubic feet per hour. Imagine a room that's 180 square meters (around 1,940 sq ft) with a ceiling height of 2.7 meters—that’s about 486 cubic meters or 17,170 cubic feet of air. A 550 CFM Air Scrubber can completely cycle and clean all the air in that space nearly two times every hour, or once every 30 minutes. That level of efficiency is why you’ll find air scrubbers in: Construction zones to remove dust and fiberglass; Hospitals and labs where air sterility is crucial; Offices and gyms where people constantly breathe out CO₂. If you’re in the home renovation business, doing post-remodel cleanups or chemical fume extractions, renting a 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber for just a few hours can get the job done fast. No lingering smell, no client complaints—just fresh, breathable air. Especially Effective at Removing Gaseous Pollutants (Like CO₂ and VOCs) Worried about carbon dioxide buildup in a crowded office? Or that “new paint” smell from a freshly renovated room? That’s where Air Scrubbers shine. Most air purifiers on the market are only good at removing particles—dust, pollen, pet dander. But gases? They're too small and slippery. The 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber, equipped with activated carbon filters, ionization modules, or even ozone generators (in some models), specifically targets: CO₂: Common in poorly ventilated indoor spaces; VOCs: Found in paints, adhesives, furniture glue, and cleaning products; Chemical fumes: From industrial solvents or pesticides. These airborne chemicals can cause headaches, fatigue, respiratory issues, and long-term health effects. Standard air purifiers don’t stand a chance. But an air scrubber? It’s built to trap or break them down at a molecular level. In short, an Air Scrubber isn’t just good at cleaning air—it’s built to decontaminate it. It works fast, works hard, and works in ways that most air purifiers can’t even begin to match. If you are in need of an air scrubber, you can choose to trust us at Abestorm. not only will we give you answers to any questions you may have about air scrubbers, but we also offer a 24-hour helpline. We also vigorously research and develop various household appliances, such as dehumidifiers and exhaust fans. Cons: What Are the Drawbacks of Air Scrubbers? Air scrubbers are absolute beasts when it comes to cleaning air. But no machine is flawless. Before you invest, let’s talk about the downsides—clearly, directly, and with real-world numbers. Not Built for Odor Elimination Yes, air scrubbers often include activated carbon filters, which do absorb some odors. But if you’re expecting this machine to erase the scent of fried bacon, garlic shrimp, or lingering cigarette smoke from your man cave? You’re likely to be disappointed. The air scrubber model is designed to tackle health hazards, not win a fragrance competition. It removes VOC fumes, formaldehyde, mold spores, and fine dust particles. It’s not a Glade plug-in. If a clean, fresh scent is your priority, you’ll need to pair it with an essential oil diffuser or deodorizer. Air scrubbers fight invisible enemies; they’re not air fresheners in disguise. Still an Investment (Though More Affordable Than You Think) Compared to older or industrial units priced well above $1,000, the Abestorm 550 CFM Air Scrubber is actually competitively priced at $372.75 (down from $497). For a 3-stage filtration system with a durable housing and professional airflow capacity, that’s a solid deal. But the costs don’t stop there. Replacement HEPA filters and activated carbon filters typically need swapping every 3 to 6 months, depending on usage and contamination levels. On average, a filter set costs between $60 and $120 USD. Running two filter replacements a year? That’s $120–$240 in annual maintenance. For contractors, remediation pros, or HVAC techs, this is nothing. But for a homeowner using the unit occasionally in a basement or garage? It’s still a line item worth budgeting. That said, for temporary jobs (like a post-renovation cleanup or mold mitigation), renting could be an option. Rental rates in the U.S. vary, but $35 to $50 per day is typical for similar commercial-grade scrubbers. It Uses a Decent Amount of Power While not a power hog, a 550 CFM air scrubber is more energy-intensive than your average air purifier. Here’s what to expect with the Abestorm unit: Power rating: Typically falls between 250–350 watts. Run it for 10 hours per day? That’s about 2.5 to 3.5 kWh daily. At the national average electricity rate of $0.16 per kWh, your daily cost ranges between $0.40 and $0.56. That adds up to $12–$17/month if used daily for 10 hours. For industrial or commercial use, that’s negligible. But for homeowners running multiple devices or trying to keep electric bills down, it’s one more thing to factor in. The Abestorm 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber offers high performance at an accessible price, but it’s not magic. It won’t make your house smell like a pine forest. It requires regular filter replacements. It does pull some juice from your outlet. But if you need serious air cleaning—think mold spores, wildfire smoke, construction dust, or VOC fumes—it gets the job done fast, reliably, and affordably. Want healthy air or just nice-smelling air? Know the difference—this machine definitely does. Are Air Scrubbers Worth It? Let’s kick this off with a simple question: Do you care about how the air feels—or what’s actually in it? If you're chasing ambient lighting, a subtle breeze, mood-enhancing humidity, or rose-scented airflow… this isn’t your machine. Air scrubbers aren’t lifestyle gadgets. They’re workhorses—built for function, not fragrance. But if you’re in one of these situations, keep reading. Because this might be the smartest air-related purchase you'll ever make. Renovating and Worried About Formaldehyde? Fresh paint, new furniture, adhesives, and flooring can all release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. It lingers in the air, especially in enclosed spaces, and standard air purifiers often can’t touch it. The 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber, like the one from Abestorm, is designed to pull those VOCs out of circulation, fast. The triple filtration system—with a pre-filter, H13-grade HEPA, and activated carbon—doesn’t just trap particles; it adsorbs harmful gases too. Have Babies, Elderly Family, or Asthma Sufferers at Home? When immune systems are developing or compromised, even mild indoor pollution can cause big health problems. Allergens, dust mites, mold spores—they float around invisible to the eye, but not to your lungs. A high-powered air scrubber can clean 33,000 cubic feet of air per hour. For a 1,000 sq. ft. home with standard ceilings? That’s a full air exchange every 15 minutes. That’s how you protect the people you care about, not just with a nice scent, but with clean, breathable, contaminant-free air. Work in a Stuffy Office With Sky-High CO₂ Levels? Ever wonder why everyone seems groggy and irritable by 3 PM? It’s not just the Monday blues—it could be carbon dioxide buildup from poor ventilation. A dense room with 5–10 people and no open windows can hit CO₂ concentrations of 1500+ ppm, which is well above the comfort threshold. Most consumer air purifiers can’t touch CO₂. But air scrubbers, especially those with activated carbon and optional negative ion modules, can actively reduce gaseous pollutants, keeping you sharper, more focused, and less cranky. Work in Paint, Woodwork, Restoration, or Healthcare? If your job exposes you to paint fumes, drywall dust, mold spores, wood particles, or chemical residues, an air scrubber is not optional—it’s protective equipment. Contractors, mold remediation teams, hospitals, dental clinics, and even cannabis grow facilities rely on 550 CFM air scrubbers because they're compact enough to move around. They process air continuously and powerfully. They're designed to meet OSHA and EPA guidelines for clean-air workspaces. Why 550 CFM Is the “Just Right” Too small, and you’re wasting time. Too large, and it’s overkill. The 550 CFM model balances portability with performance. It covers both residential and light commercial needs without draining your wallet or power supply. At 550 CFM, you're cycling through the air of a 2-car garage every 10 minutes. Priced around $372.75, it’s a serious machine at a non-intimidating price point—especially compared to $800+ industrial options. Plug it in. Let it run. No app, no fluff, no BS. So—Is It Worth It? If your top concern mood lighting or fresh scents? No. Get a smart air purifier or a high-end diffuser. But if you're serious about air quality—about eliminating pollutants instead of masking them—then yes. A 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber is not only worth it. It might be the only device actually doing the job you thought your air purifier was doing. Still unsure? Check out this must-read next: Why Do I Need an Air Scrubber

May 14, 2025

How to Install an Air Scrubber in HVAC System

Ever wonder what’s floating around in your home’s air right now? Dust mites, pollen, mold spores, pet dander, chemical fumes—and that’s just the short list. If your HVAC system is just cycling that stuff over and over, then every breath you take might be… well, kind of gross. That’s where air scrubbers come in. These aren’t the flimsy plug-in gadgets from a late-night infomercial. We’re talking professional-grade filtration systems—like the Integrated Air Scrubber—built to wipe the air clean at the source: inside your HVAC ductwork. Think hospital-level air quality, but at home. In this guide, we’ll break down exactly what air scrubbers are, how they work, whether they’re worth your money, and—most importantly—how to install one without calling in a full HVAC crew. You’ll get clear steps, real cost breakdowns, and pro-level tips even a total beginner can follow. Ready to stop breathing recycled funk and start taking in real, clean air? Let’s get into it. What is an Air Scrubber and How It Works？ What is an Air Scrubber？ Imagine you're sitting in your living room. The HVAC system hums quietly. You breathe in… but what exactly are you inhaling? Fresh air? No you'd never guessEven in spotless homes, indoor air can hold pet dander, pollen, mold spores, bacteria, and chemical vapors. And your standard HVAC filter? But not all airborne particles are purified, so this is where you need Air Scrubbers to help you out. A real Air Scrubber hooks into your HVAC ductwork and cleans the air circulating through your entire house. In simple terms: an air scrubber is a high-performance purification device installed directly inside your HVAC system. It captures and neutralizes airborne pollutants before they ever reach your living space. It’s different from a regular air scrubber. Most scrubbers only clean the air in a single room. An air scrubber, once installed in the HVAC system, purifies every cubic foot of air being pushed through your home—whether you’re in the kitchen or the attic. How Does an Air Scrubber Work? The Air Scrubber has two main filtration devices, a pre-filter Stops the Big Stuff, such as Hair. Lint. Large dust particles. They're all caught in the first filter layer. Think of this as the doorman at a club-if it's big and obvious, it gets stopped here. A true HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) filter traps 99.97% of particles that are 0.3 microns or larger. For context, a human hair is around 50 micrometers wide. So this thing traps mold spores, smoke particles, pet allergens-anything microscopic. If you need a whole-house air scrubber, I recommend The 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber. It processes 550 cubic feet of air per minute, which means it can filter the entire air volume of a 2, 000 sq. ft. home in a 2, 000 sq. ft. home. It processes 550 cubic feet of air per minute, which means it can filter the entire air volume of a 2, 000 sq. ft. home in under an hour. Ideal for allergy-prone households, post-renovation cleanups, or anywhere dust and fumes are an issue. These components kill bacteria and viruses, neutralize odors, and break down VOCs (volatile organic compounds) on a molecular scale. These components kill bacteria and viruses, neutralize odors, and break down VOCs (volatile organic compounds) on a molecular level. Are Air Scrubbers in HVAC Worth It? Yes it is well worth it. If your HVAC system is the lungs of your home, then an Air Scrubber is the immune system. It removes contaminants like dust, VOCs, mold spores, smoke particles, pet dander, and even bacteria-before they recirculate into your living space. It removes contaminants like dust, VOCs, mold spores, smoke particles, pet dander, and even bacteria-before they recirculate into your living space. Not even close. What would you have if you installed a whole-house air scrubber inside your HVAC? Unlike plug-in units that handle a single room, an air scrubber integrates into your HVAC system and cleans the air across your entire house. every room. every vent. Constantly. If anyone in your home has allergies, asthma, or a weakened immune system. Air scrubbers drastically reduce airborne allergens, mold spores, and pathogens. Air scrubbers drastically reduce airborne allergens, mold spores, and pathogens. Dealing with post-flood damage? Old basement smell? Cooking fumes that linger for hours? You need a dedicated air scrubber for mold and VOCs. unit neutralizes odor molecules and spores at the source. One standout model is the 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber. It filters 550 cubic feet of air per minute with a multi-layer HEPA setup. Great for households, remodeling projects, or any environment. It filters 550 cubic feet of air per minute with a multi-layer HEPA setup. Great for households, remodeling projects, or any environment that demands superior air hygiene. What is the return on investment ratio for air scrubbers? Initial equipment cost: $600-$1,200 depending on brand and features. $300-$700 for most HVAC setups. Filter replacement approx. $50-$100 every 3-6 months. Potentially priceless if you or your family suffer from respiratory issues. For under $2,000, you can transform your air quality from “questionable” to “clinic-grade.” That's far less than the medical grade. That's far less than the medical bills or remediation costs from letting air quality problems pile up. If you're still stuck on which machine to choose, you can read this article:The 6 Best HEPA Air Scrubbers of 2024 How to Install an Air Scrubber in HVAC System？ 550 CFM HEPA air cleaners are plug-and-play units. You don't need to install them on your ductwork. If you are going to connect air scrubbers directly to your ductwork, they are usually located on the return side of your HVAC system so that you can clean the air before it enters the blower and circulates through your home. Tools and Materials You’ll Need Air scrubber unit Sheet metal screws or self-tapping screws Metal snips Drill/driver Tape measure Sheet metal tape (HVAC foil tape, not duct tape) Mounting brackets or platform (depends on model) Safety gloves and glasses Power source (120V or 220V depending on unit) Optional: flexible ducting or collars if using a bypass install Step 1: Determine the Correct Installation Location You want to install the air cleaner on the return side of the HVAC system, before the air reaches the furnace or air handler. Protecting the HVAC components while trapping dirty air before it reaches the blower ensures whole-house filtration! Look for a straight section of return air duct with enough clearance to securely mount the unit. You may also want to consider a bypass configuration using flexible ducting if the unit is portable and duct compatible. Step 2: Cutting the Access Port With the unit locked in place, measure the size of the scrubber intake and exhaust ports, trace the dimensions on the ducting, and use metal shears to cut the openings, filing down sharp edges as necessary! Step 3: Mounting the Air Cleaner to the Ducting If designed for inline mounting (mounting inside the duct), use the supplied bracket to hang or mount it on a platform. If connected externally via collar, insert the air inlet and exhaust ports into the cut openings and secure them with sheet metal screws. Seal all seams with HVAC aluminum foil tape to prevent air leaks. Step 4: Connect the Power Supply Most home air cleaners use a standard 120V outlet. For permanent installations: Have an electrician hardwire the unit to an HVAC distribution panel or nearby outlet. For plug-in models, simply make sure the outlet is grounded and close enough that no extension cord is required. If your model includes a UV-C lamp or ionization module, verify that the internal components light up when energized. Step 5: Test Airflow and Operation With the wires connected, turn on the HVAC blower (you can set it to “Fan On” on the thermostat). Check the airflow through the scrubber and listen for rattling or vibration, use a hand-held anemometer if you want to verify that the airflow CFM is within specifications, and check for error codes if the air cleaner includes a filter indicator light or performance indicator light. Step 6: Establish a Filter Maintenance Program The filter is the heart of the system. Clean or replace the filter as often as needed, usually every 3-6 months. Some environments (construction zones, homes with pets, or basements prone to mold) may require more frequent filter changes. How Much Does it Cost to Install an Air Scrubber? Expect a total cost between $900 and $2,500, depending on the unit, your HVAC setup, and whether you hire a pro or go the DIY route. Equipment Cost Here’s what the units themselves cost, based on capability: Type of Unit Price Range Best For Entry-level plug-in scrubbers $100 – $300 One room only—not a true scrubber Portable HEPA air scrubbers $450 – $850 Jobsites, flood cleanup, mold mitigation HVAC-integrated air scrubbers $800 – $1,500+ Whole-home purification via duct system Example: The 550 CFM HEPA Air Scrubber sits in the $650–$850 range. It filters 550 cubic feet of air per minute—ideal for homes up to 2,000 square feet or post-construction spaces. Installation Cost Now, unless you’re confident about cutting into ducts and wiring up power, you’ll probably need an HVAC tech. Service Type Cost Estimate Basic duct install $300 – $500 Electrical hardwiring $150 – $350 Custom ductwork $500+ DIY install? You’ll save the labor, but factor in tools, time, and risk. If you mess up duct sealing or airflow, you could reduce your system’s efficiency—or even damage it. Ongoing Maintenance Air scrubbers don’t just run forever. They rely on filters. And filters cost money. Maintenance Item Cost Frequency Pre-filters (foam or mesh) $15 – $30 Monthly or as needed HEPA filters $50 – $100+ Every 3–6 months UV-C bulb (if included) $30 – $100 Annually If you’re dealing with mold or heavy particles (e.g., drywall dust), use a specialized air scrubber for mold, and expect to replace filters more frequently, especially during remediation. Total Cost Examples Use Case Approx. Total Details DIY install in home $850 – $1,200 Mid-range air scrubber + basic tools Pro install, 2,000 sq. ft. house $1,400 – $2,200 High-performance unit, full duct integration Mold remediation or flood cleanup $1,200 – $2,500 Commercial-grade unit + frequent filter replacement Conclusion Installing an air scrubber in your HVAC system isn't just a home upgrade, it's a health initiative with real-world impact. From filtering out mold spores and building dust to eliminating bacteria and volatile chemicals, a great unit like the 550 CFM HEPA air cleaner can give your indoor air a thorough cleaning. Sure, the upfront cost ranges from $900 to $2,500, depending on your setup, but the payoff is 24/7 air you can count on. Whether you're trying to protect a newborn, control allergies, or are tired of that mysterious odor in your vents, these numbers will benefit you. Need help choosing the right unit for your house layout or family needs? Ask for your requirements and we at Abestorm will help you out.

May 12, 2025

How Often to Clean Air Scrubber Filters

You know what? Even if you buy the most advanced Air Scrubber, as long as you are too lazy to maintain it, it is just a decoration. Many people think that the "purifier" to buy back to clean the air all the time, the results of a few months after the home air is still cloudy, stuffy heavy, and even a bit of odor - this time you have to ask yourself a question: how often do you Clean Air Scrubber! How often do you Clean Air scrubbers? How often do you change your Carbon Filter? Don't worry—this article isn't going to be a “vague recommendation.” We're going to get down to the nitty-gritty and make sure you know the intervals, cleaning frequency, and replacement logic for each type of filter and can do it at home right away. Do Air Scrubbers Need To Be Cleaned? Yes. Absolutely. No exceptions. Air scrubbers aren’t magic boxes. They don’t destroy dirt with a wave of a wand. Their mechanism is brutally simple and impressively effective. An air scrubber pulls in air, runs it through a series of filters, traps dust, odors, pollen, smoke particles, mold spores, and even viruses, then pushes out cleaner, fresher air. But here’s the catch —Where do all those nasty particles go? They don’t disappear. They stay trapped inside the filters. And if you don’t regularly clean your air scrubber, guess what happens: Filters get clogged, airflow drops, and purification performance tanks. Mold and bacteria start growing inside — now your air scrubber is spreading pollution, not cleaning it. The motor works harder — more wear, more heat, shorter lifespan. Don’t clean it, and your air scrubber becomes a dirty, smelly fan. A Clean Air Scrubber isn’t a luxury—it’s the only way your unit can actually do its job. Dust and debris don’t take a break, and neither should your maintenance routine. So, if you haven’t opened up your unit in months? It’s time. Right now. What Types of Filters Are Inside an Air Scrubber? Before you can properly clean or replace your air scrubber, you need to know exactly what kind of filters you're dealing with. Most air scrubbers come equipped with at least three different types of filter layers, each designed for a specific job and requiring its own style of care. Pre-filter Think of it as the net that catches the big stuff before it clogs up the finer, more sensitive filters behind it. It's washable in most cases and should be cleaned often to keep airflow strong and the deeper filters protected. This is the first line of defense. The pre-filter is designed to capture large particles such as: Hair, Dust, Pet dander, Lint. Carbon Filter (Activated Carbon Layer) This filter is your air scrubber’s odor and gas trap. The carbon filter specializes in absorbing household odors, cooking smells, cigarette smoke, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and chemical fumes. Made from activated charcoal, this filter doesn’t just mask odors—it chemically absorbs them. However, once saturated, it loses effectiveness quickly and needs to be replaced, not washed. If you can start to smell things again, your carbon filter will probably be maxed out. HEPA Filter (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) This is where the real microscopic cleanup happens. HEPA filters are made of ultra-fine fibers packed tightly together to trap particles down to 0.3 microns with 99.97% efficiency. These filters are not washable. Once they become dark, clogged, or begin to smell, they need to be replaced—no exceptions. A true HEPA filter captures: PM2.5 and smaller particulates, Bacteria, Mold spores, Allergens, even some viruses Each of these filters plays a crucial role in how well your Air Scrubber performs. And because each one tackles a different kind of pollutant, they wear out at different rates and require unique care routines. You can’t treat all filters the same. How Often Do You Change The Filter On An Air Scrubber? If you don’t use your air scrubber or air purifier every day, your filters will last longer. But even if it's just sitting in the corner, collecting a little dust each day, that still adds up. And when you're actively using it, especially in homes with pets, smokers, or heavy cooking, you’ll need a regular cleaning and replacement schedule to keep your Air Scrubber running at peak performance. Here’s a filter-by-filter breakdown。 Pre-filter (First Defense Layer) Cleaning Frequency: Every 2 weeks to 3 months, depending on your environment. Got pets? Clean it every 2 weeks. Live in a dusty or high-traffic area? Stick to monthly cleaning. Cleaner, quieter homes? You might stretch it to every 3 months. Most pre-filters are washable. Remove them, rinse under cool water, gently scrub off visible debris, and let them fully dry before reinstalling. Usually 1 to 2+ years. Pre-filters are made to last, but should be replaced if: They tear or deform, They're permanently stained, They lose structural integrity Tip: A clean pre-filter protects the inner filters and extends their life, so treat this step seriously. Carbon Filter (Activated Carbon Layer) Most Carbon Filters are not washable. Trying to rinse them will ruin the porous carbon material. Instead, lightly vacuum or tap them clean once every month to remove loose dust and surface gunk. This varies a lot based on how often and how intensively you use your Air Scrubber: Standard use (e.g., 6 hours a day in a clean home): Every 6 to 12 months Heavy use (smoking indoors, pets, lots of cooking): Every 3 to 6 months Light use (rarely turned on): Can last up to 2 years, but test for odor retention How to Know It’s Time to Replace: Sniff test. No joke. If your Carbon Filter smells musty, smoky, or chemical, it has saturated. And a saturated Carbon Filter can't absorb odors anymore. The stinkier it gets, the less effective it becomes. Don’t ignore the signs—replace, don’t rinse. HEPA Filter (High-Efficiency Filter for Fine Particles) HEPA filters are not washable. Water ruins the fiber density that traps microscopic particles. Instead, vacuum them gently every 2 to 3 months to remove surface dust buildup. Use a soft brush nozzle and avoid pressing hard. Replacement Frequency Daily usage (~4 hours/day): Replace every 9–12 months Heavy usage (~10+ hours/day): Replace every 3 to 6 months Occasional usage (e.g., once a week): Can last up to 2 years Visual Signs It’s Time to Replace: Turning yellow, gray, or black, Presence of mold spots or odor, Sharp drop in airflow or air quality. If it looks gross or smells off, it’s no longer safe. Don’t hesitate—swap it out. Filter maintenance is like brushing your teeth—you don't wait until there's a problem. Regularly clean your Air Scrubber, keep the Carbon Filter fresh, and don’t skimp on replacing your HEPA filters. Clean air isn’t automatic. But with the right schedule, your air scrubber will keep your lungs happy and your home healthier. How to Know When Your Air Scrubber Needs Cleaning？ Don’t wait for your machine to beep or flash a warning. By the time your Air Scrubber is alerting you, it’s already been struggling for a while. Instead, get ahead of the game with these clear, visible, and audible signs that scream: “Clean me—NOW.” Reduced Airflow or Louder Operation Notice that the air isn’t blasting out like it used to? Maybe it sounds like a small jet engine now? Drop in airflow = Your filters are clogged. Increase in fan noise = The motor is working overtime trying to push air through blocked layers. This is your first red flag. When filters get stuffed with dust, pet hair, and other gunk, airflow drops fast, and the scrubber has to strain to do its job. The Air Smells... Off Walk into the room and catch a whiff of something stale? Damp basement? Lingering cigarette smoke? That’s your Carbon Filter crying for help. A dirty Carbon Filter can't absorb odors anymore. It might even start to release the smells it once trapped. If your air smells worse after running the scrubber, shut it off and inspect the filters. Tip: Trust your nose. It’s often more accurate than any sensor. Filter Color Has Changed Take a look at the HEPA filter or Carbon Filter (if accessible). If they’ve gone from white or light grey to: Yellow, Dark brown, Black, Moldy spots…it’s time. No excuses. HEPA filters are meant to catch ultra-fine particles. When their surface is visibly dirty, the internal layers are already maxed out. Carbon filters, once they start to look like burnt toast, have stopped doing anything useful. Pre-Filter Looks Like a Dust Carpet Pop open the front cover and check the pre-filter. If you see: Matted dust, Clumps of pet hair, A thick gray film, Insect debris (yes, it happens). It’s shocking the first time you see it. But once you clean it, you’ll notice how instantly the airflow improves and how much quieter the machine gets. What Is The Maintenance On An Air Scrubber? Keeping your Air Scrubber in top shape doesn’t require an engineering degree. It just needs consistency, a little elbow grease, and a proper schedule. Below is your no-excuse maintenance checklist—designed to be printed, taped to a wall, and actually followed. Filter Maintenance Chart Filter Type Cleaning Frequency Replacement Cycle Notes Pre-filter Every 2 weeks – 3 months Every 1 – 2 years Washable. Dry completely before reinstalling. Carbon Filter Light cleaning monthly Every 3 months – 2 years Not washable. Vacuum or replace when saturated. HEPA Filter Vacuum every 2–3 months Every 3 months – 2 years Never wash. Replace if discolored or smelly. Set reminders on your phone or smart calendar: 30 days, 90 days, 180 days. Write down the date each time you clean or replace a filter. Tape it next to this chart. Stock spare filters in advance so you don’t delay when one goes bad. If unsure, trust your senses: if it smells weird or looks dirty, it's time. If you still have any questions about air scrubbers, you can check out the knowledge we have posted in the past. Conclusion The first step you can take is simple: get the Clean Air Scrubber now, and remember - it's not about the machine, it's about the breath you take into your lungs every day. Still want to see a more professional comparison of purification devices? Or a do-it-yourself DIY Carbon Filter replacement illustration? Leave a comment in the comments section, and I'll write it up!

Does an Air Purifier Help with Carbon Monoxide

May 11, 2025

Does an Air Purifier Help with Carbon Monoxide

Carbon monoxide (CO) isn't just a home hazard—it's a silent, invisible killer. Lighter than air, this odourless, colourless gas seeps into homes through gas stoves, furnaces, water heaters, or cracked chimneys. Unlike pollen or dust, CO binds to hemoglobin 200-250 times more effectively than oxygen, starving organs of oxygen and causing symptoms that escalate from headaches and dizziness to coma or death within minutes. Stay safe by ensuring proper ventilation, shutting off CO sources, and using activated carbon filters to absorb some CO. Keep in mind, these filters can't monitor CO; detectors are a must. So， What is Carbon Monoxide? Carbon monoxide (CO) is an invisible, odourless gas made of carbon and oxygen. It is poorly soluble in water but extremely dangerous because it binds to hemoglobin 200-300 times more strongly than oxygen. This forms carboxyhemoglobin (COHb), which blocks oxygen delivery to your body's tissues and can cause organ damage in minutes. Scary, right? Where Does CO Come From? Home Appliances: Gas stoves, water heaters, and fireplaces can release CO when fuels do not burn completely. Industrial Sources: High-temperature processes in metalworking and chemical manufacturing produce CO emissions. Vehicle Exhaust: Cars emit 5-15% CO, and levels in enclosed garages can become lethal in under 10 minutes. Other Sources: Cigarettes, generators, and charcoal grills also release this deadly gas. Is carbon monoxide harmful to your health? Yes, it can cause harm to your body, and in severe cases, it can cause death. Acute poisoning: Exposure to carbon monoxide for just 5 minutes at concentrations of 5,000 ppm can be fatal, with symptoms including headaches, confusion, and respiratory failure. Chronic effects: Long-term exposure to low concentrations can worsen heart disease and cause nerve damage. So, how do we prevent it?You need to use carbon monoxide detectors and air purifiers. Can I Just Use An Air Purifier? Most air purifiers, including whole-house HEPA filter systems and HVAC-integrated models, focus on removing particulates. HEPA filters excel at trapping particles as small as 0.3 microns with 99.97% efficiency, but CO molecules measure just 0.0003 microns, rendering them invisible to mechanical filtration. Even advanced technologies like UV-C light or photocatalytic oxidation, designed to neutralise organic pollutants, prove ineffective against CO’s chemically inert structure. This limitation isn’t a flaw in design—it’s a fundamental flaw in capability. Air purifiers address airborne solids and liquids, not gaseous toxins. To make matters worse, many homeowners mistakenly conflate air purification with carbon monoxide (CO) detection, assuming their HVAC air cleaner or portable purifier will sound an alarm when CO levels rise. Actually, it won't. The Indispensable Role of Carbon Monoxide Detectors CO detectors work differently from air purifiers. These devices use electrochemical sensors to track CO levels in real time, generating small electrical currents that rise with CO concentration. When CO hits 50 ppm—a level where health risks begin—alarms trigger automatically. High-end models even connect to Wi-Fi, sending smartphone alerts. How to Protect Yourself from Carbon Monoxide Protecting your home from carbon monoxide requires three key steps: 1. Install Detectors Place CO detectors on every floor, especially near bedrooms and fuel-burning appliances. Test the detectors monthly and replace the batteries at least once a year. 2. Fix the Source Regularly maintain your HVAC system, seal any leaks in ventilation pipes, and upgrade to modern appliances with direct venting. 3. Improve Ventilation Open windows when using gas stoves or other high-risk appliances to reduce carbon monoxide (CO) buildup. While air scrubbers can't eliminate carbon monoxide, they significantly enhance indoor air quality by removing allergens and airborne particles like dust, pet dander, and cooking smoke—issues standard CO detectors can't address. Pairing air purifiers with reliable CO detectors for homes with gas appliances creates a safer environment. In Conclusion Consider CO detectors as life's silent alarm—they wake you up to invisible danger. Install them near bedrooms and garages, crack a window when cooking, and swap batteries yearly. Hey, don't forget: Air purifiers handle dust, but detectors save lives. Test that alarm monthly—simple habits keep your air safe.

April 25, 2025

How to Get Smells Out of Wood Floor | Expert Guide

Wood floors bring a lasting and stylish charm to any house, however, they can also catch smells. Over time, odors from spills, pets, dampness, or mold can become ingrained in the wood. These smells both impact the floor and circulate into the air, which makes the entire area feel less fresh. If you find yourself wondering how to get smell out of wood floor effectively, fear not! Today’s complete guide describes the causes when a wood floor smells musty, how to remove the bad smell from the floor, and the tools that can assist. Beginning with baking soda on a hardwood floor to using a HEPA Air Scrubber, we’ll explain useful steps that actually work. What Causes Bad Smells in Wood Floors? Typically, foul smells originate from one or various popular sources. Therefore, recognizing the cause is the initial step in understanding how to remove bad smells from the floor surfaces. Pet Urine and Accidents Pet mishaps can penetrate deep into wood floors, leaving behind powerful odors. These smells often come back on damp days. Even though you cleanse the surface, pet pee can remain stuck under the boards or in the grain. An enzymatic cleaner for hardwood floors is the most promising solution in such scenarios. Moisture and Spills Too much humidity or water from leaks can be absorbed into the wood. With time, this paves the way for the usual wood floors smell musty issue. If the dampness isn’t cleared away quickly, it creates the ideal environment for mold and bacteria. Mold or Mildew Under the Floor When you note a bad smell, but can’t discover a spot, the odor might be rising from under the floorboards. That said, mold can develop unseen and yet discharge bad odors into the room. At that moment, a HEPA air scrubber becomes beneficial for taking airborne mold spores out of the air. Old Finishes or Trapped Odors Wood floors that have not yet been repaired over the years might bring smells from past leaks, smoke, or foot traffic. These odors adapt to the finish or wood solely. Occasionally, surface washing isn’t sufficient, and the floor might require to be polished and sealed again. Step-by-Step: How to Get Smells Out of Wood Floors Stick to these reliable steps to settle a wood floor that smells musty or supports pet and humidity smells. Every step assists you know grasping how to get smell out of wood floor or for car odor removal utilizing secure and easy techniques 1. Identify the Source of the Odor Begin by finding the place where the odor is emerging. For this, take help from your nose and search for spots, dampness harm, or symptoms of mold. Besides, inspect corners, close to pet spaces, and under rugs. In case the smell is powerful in one place, that’s probably where the issues begin. 2. Clean the Surface Thoroughly Clean the floor to pull out waste and dust. Next, wash using a natural blend of vinegar and an enzymatic cleaner for hardwood floors or water. Enzymatic cleaners destroy organic odors, such as food or urine. Having said that, apply just a damp mop. Extreme water turns the floor into a distressing condition and can cause mold. In short, it starts with the right surface cleansing. 3. Deep Clean with Specialized Products A few smells go even further. In such scenarios, test baking soda on the wood floor. Spray it on the stinking space and leave it for a whole night. Then, clean it up. However, for sharp odors, utilize a hydrogen peroxide or a pet-secure enzymatic spray. Of course, these products function well compared to the main cleaners and aid you in locating the best hardwood floor deodorizer for your house. 4. Dry the Area Completely Dampness results in foul smells. Thus, after washing, dry out the space with unlocked windows or fans. For improved outcomes, operate a HEPA air scrubber. It attracts smells, mold spores, and particles from the air. Also, it assists in avoiding the return of damp odors. This machine is stronger relative to air filters vs air purifiers. Although purifiers serve to remove irritants, a HEPA air scrubber eliminates more extensive airborne particles connected to smell. 5. Sand and Refinish If Needed In that case, smell does not leave, you might have to sand the floor. This clears away the uppermost layer where odors are stuck. Once you sand, put in a new finish to close up the surface. Often, this is the final move in how to remove bad smell from floor when every cleansing technique goes wrong. This offers the wood a perfect base and aids in preventing the upcoming smell increase. 6. Apply Cedarwood Oil for Natural Deodorizing Cedarwood oil has inherent disinfecting characteristics that can help get rid of smells in wood floors. Its sweet smell covers up foul smells and spreads a pleasant smell to the region. For this, blend some drops of cedarwood essential oil with a base oil such as mineral oil or jojoba oil. Use the mixture mildly on the impacted zones with a soft cloth. Let it get across the wood for one night. Wash any extra oil on the day after. Pro Tip: Check the mixture in a little, unnoticeable place initially to confirm it does not impact the finish of your floor. 7. Use Activated Charcoal for Deep Air Freshener Activated Charcoal is very absorbent and powerful at catching smells. Typically, it’s used in air and water filtration and can be adjusted for usage on wood floors. That said, set down activated charcoal in breathable bags or cartons. Place them throughout the affected areas of the floor. Keep them there for various days to soak up smells. Clear away the charcoal and discard it appropriately. 8. Increase Ventilation to Flush Out Odors Bad air circulation can attract smells in wood floors, specifically in rooms with restricted airflow. So, enhancing ventilation is an original and practical way to eliminate damp odors, pet smells, or humidity-related odors from the floor or nearby air. Unlock all the doors and windows of the damaged room to encourage cross-ventilation. Invest in window or exhaust fans to draw dead air out and introduce clean air. Also, operate a HEPA air scrubber together with natural air circulation to quicken smell removal. The above-mentioned steps are effective for various types of odors, including those caused by leaks, pet accidents, and mildew. The use of safe cleaning goods and equipment, such as a HEPA air scrubber, can restore your floors and enhance the air in the house. How HEPA Air Scrubbers Help Eliminate Odors? Once you clean the floor, odors can still remain in the air. At that point, a HEPA air scrubber stands out. These tools are engineered to capture smell-causing particles, mold germs, and dust from the air and close them in strong filters. A HEPA air scrubber utilizes a multi-stage filtration setup. The most significant component is the HEPA filter, which attracts very tiny particles that normal filters overlook. Additionally, it eliminates mold spores, bacteria, and organic material that lead to smells. Several people set side by side air filters vs air purifiers; however, these devices handle separate tasks. An air purifier is intended for confined spaces. An air filter is a part of the HVAC system. A HEPA air scrubber, on the other hand, is designed for heavy-duty tasks such as smell control and indoor air purification after deep cleansing or restoration. Running an air scrubber after cleaning assists with: Extracting persistent smells after dealing with wood. Clearing airborne mold spores from around or under the floor Enhancing indoor air quality in damp or smelly rooms Lowering irritants and particles in mouldy or damp rooms For houses with constant smell problems, Abestorm HEPA air scrubbers are best. These devices are designed to cleanse big spaces quickly and keep fresh air in houses with pets, leaks, or humidity issues. Preventing Future Odors in Wood Floors Once you’ve gained a thorough knowledge of getting smells out of wood floors, it’s urgent to stop these smells from returning. Prevention is easy and ensures your house stays fresh as well. Manage Indoor Humidity: Excessive humidity results in moisture increase, mold, and damp odors. Run dehumidifiers to maintain levels between 40% to 50%. This helps avoid smells and damage. Clean Spills Immediately: Moisture can penetrate the wood instantly. Regularly cleanse spills instantly to prevent stuck moisture and smells. This is a formula for ceasing issues before they begin. Use Rugs in Problem Areas: Install washable rugs in high-activity areas or close-by pet regions. Rugs trap waste and spills before they get to the wood. Wash them frequently to prevent the development of smell. Conclusion Foul smells in wood floors mostly originate from deep within the wood, activated by spills, pets, or stuck moisture. An awareness of how to get smell out of wood floor gives you command over your house’s ease and air quality. Easy cleaning steps, coupled with efficient devices such as baking soda and an enzymatic cleaner for hardwood floors, can be of great value. For lasting odor management and fresher air, investing in a HEPA air scrubber ensures the job is done, in the air, and on the floor.

April 15, 2025

Air Filters vs. Air Purifiers: The Right Choice for Your Home

Have you ever stopped to think about what it is that you breathe indoors? Honestly, these places probably contain the ills suffocated by air dust, pollen, pet dander, mold spores, and blue smoke- various associations with various health conditions. Headaches, sneezing, discomfort in sleeping in addition to breathing difficulties- it might be the air at home doing this. That’s where air filters and air purifiers come into play—but before rushing to buy anything, it’s important to understand how they work, how they differ, and which might suit your needs best. In this article, you will get to learn about the differences between an air filter and an air purifier, their respective mechanisms, and which one is better suited to your indoor environment. Why Indoor Air quality deserves more attention? Most people concern themselves with an air pollution outdoors; one needs to note, however, as said in the report by the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) that often, the air indoors can be more polluted by two to five times than that of the outdoors. Indoor air pollution could well be even worse under certain conditions, especially in poorly-ventilated houses or with an overwhelming concentration of contaminants. Some common examples of indoor pollutants include: Dust mites and animal dander Mold and mildew Smoke (from burning or wildfire) Chemical fumes from cleaning products or paints Volatile Organic Compounds Microorganisms like bacteria and viruses If you start getting more allergic reactions or having trouble breathing at home, check your indoor air quality, as it may be to blame. Thankfully, there are tools available that can help improve your home’s air—but the key is knowing what your space actually needs. Air Filters vs. Air Purifiers: What Are the Differences? Choosing between these tools requires knowing the nature of the air in your home. Is your concern mostly dust and allergies? Or are you dealing with smoke and chemical odors? Air filters and air purifiers enhance air quality indoors, but they do so in markedly divergent fashions. Their fundamental differences are analyzed. Air Filters Air filters are passive devices designed to trap airborne particles as they flow through them. They are usually part of HVAC systems, although standalone versions do exist for more targeted filtration. How they work: Air filters trap physical particles, including dust, pollen, and pet hair. They accomplish this with; HEPA filters-90.97% capture tiny particles. MERV-rated filters-commonly used in HVAC systems for general filtration. Pre-filters-capturing larger particles (such as pet hair). Best for-Reducing airborne debris and dusts and allergens in larger rooms. Air Purifiers Air purifiers come in even fancier varieties than those that incorporate additional purification technologies. They include filters with technologies like UV light, activated carbon, or ionizers that can target microscopic pollutants and odors. How they Work: In addition to trapping particles, air purifiers neutralize and remove: Odors and smoke Bacteria, molds, and viruses Chemical gases and VOCs Best For: Odor removal, target tiny pollutants, and microbes. Quick Comparison: Air Filters vs. Air Purifiers Feature Air Filter Aur Purifier Functions Traps physical particles Cleans air using filters and additional technologies Target Dust, dander, pollen Smokes, microbes, odors, VOCs Common technology HEPA, MERV filters HEPA, UV lights, ionizers, carbon filters Best for Allergies, dust controls Sensitive lungs, smoke, chemical exposure Ideal space HVAC systems, crawl spaces Bedrooms, living rooms, and offices When to Choose an Air Filtration System If your primary issue is dust, dander, or visible airborne debris, an air filtration system may be what your home needs most. Suppose your residence collects visible dust, has an inadequately ventilated basement, or contends with pet dander; in that case, you should consider an air filtration system as an ideal candidate. The systems are ideal for reducing larger particles suspended in the air. Best for: basements or crawl spaces with poor ventilation Garages or workshops subject to circulating dust and debris HVAC systems needing extra protection against contaminants At Abestorm, we design industrial air filtration systems tailored for high-volume air cleaning while remaining compact and energy-efficient. These are apt for homeowners seeking cleaner air and greater efficiency from their HVAC system. Pro Tip: Enhance airflow and moisture reduction by operating a basement exhaust along with the filtration system. When to Choose an Air Purifier If your main concern is eliminating odors, fine smoke particles, or chemical pollutants, air purifiers are worth considering. These are especially helpful for households dealing with asthma, allergies, or lingering smells. Air purifiers elevate air quality standards by eliminating quite an array of unpleasant odors, smoke, and other scarcely visible pollutants. In a wildfire area prone to land fires or in situations when sustained odors plague the home environment, an air purifier comes in handy. Best suited for: For persons suffering from asthma or some other respiratory conditions Homes close to wildfires and/or busy roads For the removal of odors, be it from pets, cooking, or cleaning products For mold spores and airborne bacteria Air purifiers provide multi-stage filtration generally involving: HEPA filtration to collect airborne particles Activated carbon for gas and odor adsorption UV lights or ionizers to neutralize microbes Can you use them in conjunction? Yes! You don’t always have to choose one or the other. In many homes, combining both systems offers a more complete solution. To create the best air quality in your home, one would want both air filters and air purifiers together for the most holistic solution. Here are some tips to use them together: Install a filtration system in the basement or attic for large particles, such as dust and dander. Set up portable air purifiers in your living spaces or bedrooms for fine pollutants such as smoke and volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Install an exhaust fan in the basement for circulation and humidity reduction. By combining these systems, you protect every inch of your home with a concentrated 360-degree air-cleaning approach. Other Tools to Consider: Air Scrubbers & Exhaust Fans Air scrubbers provide a perfect professional grade air appliance for removing: Chemical fumes Mold spores Smoke and gases The air scrubbing devices from Abestorm come with a unique combination of HEPA filtration, activated carbon, and UV sterilization, making them compatible with renovation projects, fire damage restoration, or permeating musty air. Combine it with a basement exhaust fan to constitute a very powerful unit to keep the air fresher, dryer, and cleaner. Pick What Your Home Needs Both air filters and purifiers are important to improve the indoor air quality. The key is understanding what option, and or combination, would most benefit your home. Choose an air filtration system if: Reducing visible dust and allergens is the goal There is ventilation about basement or crawl space problems You want a more economical way to capture large air particles. Choose an air purifier if: There are asthma, allergies, or sensitivity to chemicals. States the need to remove odor, smoke, or VOCs. Wants to neutralize bacteria and airborne microbes. Or, have both for a powerful and comprehensive air-cleaning solution. Why Choose Abestorm? We at Abestorm believe in clean air well-being and not as an added luxury. We offer: Industrial-grade air filtration systems for homes, super-clean and healthy environments, power air scrubbers, energy-efficient exhausts to improve airflow in basements, garages and crawl spaces. All products compact and user-friendly, all designed for durability. Whether you're filtering the dirt away or struggling with wildfire smoke, we have the solution for you much in relation to your space. FAQs Q: Is air filter enough for smoke or odor? No, because filter is meant to capture particles. For effectively removing smoke and odors, an air purifier with activated carbon is suggested. Q: How often should I change filters? Filters should generally be changed every 1 to 3 months, depending on your system and home air quality. Q: What is the best system for basements? For basements, the most suitable solution would be a combo of an air filtration unit and basement exhaust fan, which is best for managing dust, moisture, and musty odors. Q: Can I use air filters and purifiers together? Yes! The combination of the two systems provides total protection, especially for houses with pets, children or in places where someone suffers from respiratory problems. Call to Action Your home deserves better air—why settle for less? Whether you're tackling dust, dander, or something more serious like wildfire smoke, the right solution is out there. Make the difference in your area by investing in an ideal air filtration or purification solution. Check out the best-rated air filtration systems and air purifiers online today and start improving indoor air quality in your home. If unsure which option is right for you, contact us for personalized recommendations!